How is my sump?

gonioporagirl · 09/28/2018, 12:58 PM

I set up a used 90 gallon saltwater tank about a week ago, and right now my sump equipment is pretty minimal. I have water running through a large filter sock, then running through bags of carbon and GFO. In the next area I have a coralife super skimmer for a 125 gallon tank. Then the return pumps the water back into the display. The total sump volume is about 30 gallons, but it is usually a little below half. was wondering if this filtration is enough to keep corals and fish happy, or if I need to add some things. I will try to add pictures soon. Thanks

alton · 09/28/2018, 01:12 PM

Hopefully you have enough overflows/sections/waterfalls to create oxygen before it returns back to the display. Many think you can just flow water through a sock and then back into the display and have plenty of oxygen. Then they lose power for a few hours and their fish die because their water barely had any oxygen to survive while it was running.

sacremon · 09/28/2018, 01:35 PM

Skimmers usually add a lot of oxygen into the water. Even so, when you lose power the bacteria in the sand are consuming oxygen as much or more so than the fish.

As far as the sump is concerned, it depends on what you have in the tank - how heavy a bioload you have. There was a BRSTV video about filter socks, that you need to change them roughly every four days in order to have a noticeable impact on nitrates. Probably why the fleece roller systems are so popular.

gonioporagirl · 09/28/2018, 04:59 PM

I have a blue tang, royal gramma, cleaner wrasse, and a splendid dotty back at the moment. Not a very heavy bioload.

mcgyvr · 09/28/2018, 05:07 PM

Reminder.. GFO should only be used when you have a phosphate problem..
Phosphate is a beneficial nutrient and is required by all marine life..
If you have a phosphate problem then ok.. but if not I suggest you stop using it..

Also.. filter socks, carbon, GFO, skimmers, sumps,etc.. are all really "optional" and not required to allow one to have corals/fish,etc... The biggest workhorse in our systems are the bacterial that grows on/in the rocks/sand/surfaces of our tanks..
Surface area for bacterial, saltwater and a powerhead to oxygenate/move the water is all one needs to be successful..

2_zoa · 09/28/2018, 09:16 PM

I don't understand,
How does your water run through the carbon and GFO bags? You don't mention how water flows through these.
Are they just placed in the sump passively? Or, do you have them in another filter sock, etc?

GFO, IF, you need it. should tumble slightly in a reactor. Bags of it passively...eh. It will absorb phosphate more slowly. Will work though.

Carbon, you don't want it to tumble or it could grind itself down causing a haze in the water.

09/28/2018, 12:58 PM	#1
gonioporagirl Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 39	How is my sump? I set up a used 90 gallon saltwater tank about a week ago, and right now my sump equipment is pretty minimal. I have water running through a large filter sock, then running through bags of carbon and GFO. In the next area I have a coralife super skimmer for a 125 gallon tank. Then the return pumps the water back into the display. The total sump volume is about 30 gallons, but it is usually a little below half. was wondering if this filtration is enough to keep corals and fish happy, or if I need to add some things. I will try to add pictures soon. Thanks

09/28/2018, 01:35 PM	#3
sacremon Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 446 Blog Entries: 29	Skimmers usually add a lot of oxygen into the water. Even so, when you lose power the bacteria in the sand are consuming oxygen as much or more so than the fish. As far as the sump is concerned, it depends on what you have in the tank - how heavy a bioload you have. There was a BRSTV video about filter socks, that you need to change them roughly every four days in order to have a noticeable impact on nitrates. Probably why the fleece roller systems are so popular. __________________ 300DD, MRC MR-3 skimmer with dual Becketts, two Reefbreeders.com value LED fixtures, MRC fluidized reactor with GFO & GAC.

09/28/2018, 05:07 PM	#5
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	Reminder.. GFO should only be used when you have a phosphate problem.. Phosphate is a beneficial nutrient and is required by all marine life.. If you have a phosphate problem then ok.. but if not I suggest you stop using it.. Also.. filter socks, carbon, GFO, skimmers, sumps,etc.. are all really "optional" and not required to allow one to have corals/fish,etc... The biggest workhorse in our systems are the bacterial that grows on/in the rocks/sand/surfaces of our tanks.. Surface area for bacterial, saltwater and a powerhead to oxygenate/move the water is all one needs to be successful.. __________________ Who me?

09/28/2018, 01:12 PM	#2
alton Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Zuehl, Texas Posts: 4,460	Hopefully you have enough overflows/sections/waterfalls to create oxygen before it returns back to the display. Many think you can just flow water through a sock and then back into the display and have plenty of oxygen. Then they lose power for a few hours and their fish die because their water barely had any oxygen to survive while it was running.

09/28/2018, 04:59 PM	#4
gonioporagirl Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 39	I have a blue tang, royal gramma, cleaner wrasse, and a splendid dotty back at the moment. Not a very heavy bioload.

09/28/2018, 09:16 PM	#6
2_zoa Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,840	I don't understand, How does your water run through the carbon and GFO bags? You don't mention how water flows through these. Are they just placed in the sump passively? Or, do you have them in another filter sock, etc? GFO, IF, you need it. should tumble slightly in a reactor. Bags of it passively...eh. It will absorb phosphate more slowly. Will work though. Carbon, you don't want it to tumble or it could grind itself down causing a haze in the water.