why do I still have algae

[Reefen]

I dose vodka, nitrates are o phosphates are 0. corals are starting to bleach so I will have to dose some aminos. So why does my rock still have algae.

[j.falk]

Why does the ocean have algae?

[Bill_Moorman]

You don’t want 0 nitrates and phosphates. Bump up the numbers to 1ppm nitrates and .06 phosphates and you will see a big increase in coral growth and coloration, and likely a decrease in algae.

At 0s you’re are essentially starving your corals.


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[Reefen]

I know the corals are starving at o that's why I am adding aminos, to increase nitrates and phosphate, I am try to figure out why I still have algae

[Reefen]

hope you are right that the algae will then go away

[Uncle99]

You did not mention anything about light, your photoperiod, your intensity, your spectrum.
These things have a big impact on the reds/browns and green.

Also, what kinda corals you keep, softies, LPS, SPS, mixed,

100% like the above N and P numbers but there’s a balance that’s required in nutrients and light

[the_real_brian]

Originally Posted by Reefen

I dose vodka, nitrates are o phosphates are 0. corals are starting to bleach so I will have to dose some aminos. So why does my rock still have algae.

You'll never stop algae. All you're doing is starving your coral and risking a cyano or dinoflagellate outbreak by driving your inorganic nutrients to zero. You need to grow the algae elsewhere, either in a refugium, algae scrubber, or an algae reactor, and then dose nitrate and phosphate. I'll never attempt another reef without following this method.

[Reefen]

Originally Posted by Uncle99

You did not mention anything about light, your photoperiod, your intensity, your spectrum.
These things have a big impact on the reds/browns and green.

Also, what kinda corals you keep, softies, LPS, SPS, mixed,

100% like the above N and P numbers but there’s a balance that’s required in nutrients and light

I have mostly sps, led lighting at about 30% ramp time 3hrs then 4hrs at 30% not that much light. spectrum, not sure a lot of blue

[Reefen]

Originally Posted by the_real_brian

You'll never stop algae. All you're doing is starving your coral and risking a cyano or dinoflagellate outbreak by driving your inorganic nutrients to zero. You need to grow the algae elsewhere, either in a refugium, algae scrubber, or an algae reactor, and then dose nitrate and phosphate. I'll never attempt another reef without following this method.

I might try this, I have never had luck with algae in a fuge, but have never dosed nitrate and phosphate

[lionfish300]

What kind of algae? Some CUC or a tang would help

[Reefen]

I have tang, hermits, snails, starry blenny. I have some cyano which goes with what the- real-brain posted and some kind of green algae, the tang eats it down to where I cant tell what it is

[nematode]

IMO The only way to control algae are algae eaters. This can be microsnails, snails, fish, sea urchins, certain crabs, and preferably a combo

Limit nutrients to the point that algae are growth stalled is really bad for corals.
Serious nutrient export (socks,skimmers, and algae removal) will work, but are hard to “dial in” or adjust so they export the right amount.

I find the most stable systems have a significant number of self reproducing algavores
suc as Collonistra snails, Stomatella snails, and other microfauna (micro starfish, mini britttle stars, copapods, etc) which increase and decrease in number as food and waste changes. in abundance.

That keeps algae in control, but doesn’t necessarily means you have a coral thriving environment. Trace elements or toxins can still make a stable algae poor system inhospitable to sensitive corals.

[PYRU]

Originally Posted by the_real_brian

You'll never stop algae. All you're doing is starving your coral and risking a cyano or dinoflagellate outbreak by driving your inorganic nutrients to zero. You need to grow the algae elsewhere, either in a refugium, algae scrubber, or an algae reactor, and then dose nitrate and phosphate. I'll never attempt another reef without following this method.

I agree and don't skimp on the fuge lighting get something with some power

[bryson.bobby]

Originally Posted by PYRU

I agree and don't skimp on the fuge lighting get something with some power

Cyano occurs when your nitrates are at or near 0. Try boosting your no3 then see if it goes away.


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[bryson.bobby]

Originally Posted by bryson.bobby

Cyano occurs when your nitrates are at or near 0 and when you have detectable phosphates. Try boosting your no3 then see if it goes away.


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[bryson.bobby]

Originally Posted by bryson.bobby

Cyano occurs when your nitrates are at or near 0. I agree with @bill_moorman, try boosting your no3 then see if it goes away.


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[nematode]

Cyano occurs when your nitrates are at or near 0.

I don't think that is an accurate statement. Perhaps, better stated would be that "one condition that promotes cyano is very low nitrates." It is certainly not the only condition under which cyano can bloom.
I just had a major cyano bloom with phosphate 1.5 ppm and nitrates >20 ppm. In this case it was a small Q tank that had been treated with chloroquine phosphate (hence high PO4) to cure a fish from velvet, which had been sitting without fish for several months after the treatment. And the return pump from the sump ( an old MJ1200 died and I had not noticed). Perhaps the low flow stimulated that bloom.

[Reefen]

update, so I have raised my nitrates to 1.0 and phosphate has gone up to .03. I am using ME amino, says it doesn't raise phosphate but phosphate has gone up, does phosphate naturally go up with increase in nitrate? the cyano is going away as well

[Bill_Moorman]

As your nitrate goes up and is used, so will your phosphate.

Glad to hear the cyano is going away!


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[reefgeezer]

Originally Posted by Reefen

update, so I have raised my nitrates to 1.0 and phosphate has gone up to .03. I am using ME amino, says it doesn't raise phosphate but phosphate has gone up, does phosphate naturally go up with increase in nitrate? the cyano is going away as well

The dying Cyano may be the cause of your slight increase in phosphate. .03 ppm is a good level.

Sea Urchins are great for algae control. They don't do a good job in the cracks & crevices though. Until the tank matures, you'll always have algae issues. IMO, we just need to keep it from getting out of control until it ceases to be a problem.

[david.d]

Check your snail and crab populations. And you could consider an algae scrubber to grow the algae outside the display. Most of these are large contraptions, but there are some smaller ones that drop into your sump or even float in the display that have led lights and air tubing with an air pump. I used to have a very large one of these, and it was extremely effective, although it created too many logistical problems, but I would try the smaller versions if I had excessive algae.