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Unread 07/01/2020, 02:09 PM   #1
navychief
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250W Giesemann light Repair?

Hi, folks. Before I get into the details, I want to ask if this is a good place for starting a thread?

Problem:

Infiniti 250W HQI w/ four 24” T5s - $890 light I cannot toss!!!

Ballast seems to not be pushing the lamp completely?
Ballast (if bad) is no longer available. How to build a new ballast system?

If this is a good place to discuss, I’ll hunker down and begin. If there is another thread I might have overlooked, please let me know.

Chief


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 07/01/2020, 03:17 PM   #2
oreo57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navychief View Post
Hi, folks. Before I get into the details, I want to ask if this is a good place for starting a thread?

Problem:

Infiniti 250W HQI w/ four 24” T5s - $890 light I cannot toss!!!

Ballast seems to not be pushing the lamp completely?
Ballast (if bad) is no longer available. How to build a new ballast system?

If this is a good place to discuss, I’ll hunker down and begin. If there is another thread I might have overlooked, please let me know.

Chief
Which ballast?


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Unread 07/01/2020, 08:05 PM   #3
moondoggy4
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How many ballast?


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Unread 07/09/2020, 09:31 AM   #4
victornguyen
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its eaiser to buy a new ballast. I had to all of them in the last few years.


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Unread 07/09/2020, 09:41 AM   #5
victornguyen
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email coralvue.com customer support. they can help you to rewire a new ballast.


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Unread 08/19/2020, 11:58 AM   #6
navychief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oreo57 View Post
Which ballast?
It's a single, sealed unit. I was hoping to troubleshoot it, but it's full of sealent compound.


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 08/19/2020, 12:00 PM   #7
navychief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victornguyen View Post
email coralvue.com customer support. they can help you to rewire a new ballast.
I will give that a try. I bought a transformer for the HQI and two ballasts for the 4 T5s. Just have to figure out the proper wiring/circuitry.


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 08/19/2020, 06:56 PM   #8
moondoggy4
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Can you take a picture of the ballast?


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Unread 08/20/2020, 08:51 AM   #9
navychief
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If additional pictures are needed, I can provide.

Thank you!


Attached Images
File Type: jpg Giesemann ballast.jpg (68.1 KB, 33 views)
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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 08/20/2020, 08:13 PM   #10
oreo57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navychief View Post
If additional pictures are needed, I can provide.

Thank you!
Dang that thing is ugly...


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Unread 08/22/2020, 07:46 AM   #11
navychief
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by oreo57 View Post
Dang that thing is ugly...
Yeah. So much for determining which component needs replaced, let alone trying to removed it..


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 08/22/2020, 08:13 AM   #12
navychief
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Light intensity

Although the light does work, it appears to me that the ballast isn't pushing the 14K 250W bulb to its full potential. Is this possible, or do ballasts simply stop working? I do not own a PAR meter, so I have no real way to determine the intensity.

I have been using a Radion LED light over my tank for a couple years, but wanted to go back to the giesemann since it seemed to work very well my corals.


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 08/22/2020, 05:03 PM   #13
Vinny Kreyling
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Any way to use a ballast remotely?


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Unread 08/22/2020, 10:49 PM   #14
oreo57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navychief View Post
Although the light does work, it appears to me that the ballast isn't pushing the 14K 250W bulb to its full potential. Is this possible, or do ballasts simply stop working? I do not own a PAR meter, so I have no real way to determine the intensity.

I have been using a Radion LED light over my tank for a couple years, but wanted to go back to the giesemann since it seemed to work very well my corals.
Not an electronics guru especially w/ "old" tech.
My go to guess is some or one of those large electrolytic capacitors is dead or weak..
Unless someone comes up w/ a better solution.. best thing would be to rip it down to just wires and sockets.

Ballast looks to be some hybrid between magnetic and electronic..
And the proof is here.
Maybe resurrect this thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...1328106&page=6

see post 132

Seems that was some "fancy" tech back in the day..
Still leaning to gut and replace..

UNlike I said should be fairly straight forward to just plug a new ballast in..
This whole "compatibility" thing is why I "favor" LED's.. everywhere..
https://www.*********.com/threads/wh...finity.199089/



Last edited by oreo57; 08/22/2020 at 11:08 PM.
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Unread 08/24/2020, 01:11 PM   #15
navychief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling View Post
Any way to use a ballast remotely?
Not understanding the "remotely" question.


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 08/24/2020, 05:26 PM   #16
Vinny Kreyling
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Remotely meaning a power brick outside the unit like most of the LED lighting these days.


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Unread 08/24/2020, 08:12 PM   #17
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Did the ballast not fire up the HQI and T-5’s? The Giesemann ballast looks like an electronic rather than magnetic ballast. Wiring up a new Coralvue ballast is your best bet. Trace the old wires to the new ballasts.


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Unread 09/25/2020, 10:59 AM   #18
navychief
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Originally Posted by tacocat View Post
Did the ballast not fire up the HQI and T-5’s? The Giesemann ballast looks like an electronic rather than magnetic ballast. Wiring up a new Coralvue ballast is your best bet. Trace the old wires to the new ballasts.
It does, but it has this very lite flicker with the HQI. It doesn't seem as bright as before, and the ballast is cool as a cucumber. The ballast always ran pretty hot.


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 09/25/2020, 11:10 AM   #19
navychief
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new components....I hope

So here are a few pictures (transformer first) of the components I picked up at my local electrical/lighting store. One magnetic transformer w/capacitor and wiring diagram to drive the HQI. Two ballasts for the 4 T5s that i need to drive. Anyone have any comments/suggestions? WIll this work although it's not an electronic ballast like what came with the fixture?


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File Type: jpg IMG_1204.jpg (58.5 KB, 14 views)
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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 09/25/2020, 11:16 AM   #20
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new components, continued

Here is the two ballasts for the T5s plus the transformer wiring diagram...

All help appreciated.


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File Type: jpg IMG_1210.jpg (75.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1211.jpg (93.1 KB, 10 views)
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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 09/25/2020, 12:01 PM   #21
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That magnetic metal halide ballast will not work with HQI double ended lamps unfortunately. That one is rated only for single ended probe start lamps (ANSI M58). You need an ANSI M80 ballast but the bare ballasts are only made to order for lighting manufacturers. They are available fully assembled inside an enclosure. Other option is to use an electronic ballast.


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Unread 09/25/2020, 01:18 PM   #22
navychief
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Unhappy

Well, $hit...


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 09/28/2020, 06:42 AM   #23
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Solution

Here's the solution from Coralvue. I ordered two (spare) of these since it seems harded and harder to locate ballasts.

https://www.coralvue.com/icecap-400w...tronic-ballast


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CadLights 70G, Radion XR30W Pro, 2 MP 10, Apexs, .25 HP chiller, 3 TLF reactors w/ Carbon/Bioballs, PM Kalk reactor, 24" Giesemann w/4 Actinic T5s/250W 15000K HQI, PM R30 Fuge, Cone-S Skimmer, RS Salt

Current Tank Info: 1 Paracanthurus; 2 False Percula; 1 Monacanthidae; 1 Blue Chrysiptera cyanea; 1 Lysmata debelius; 1 Eucidaris
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Unread 09/28/2020, 10:21 PM   #24
oreo57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulErik View Post
That magnetic metal halide ballast will not work with HQI double ended lamps unfortunately. That one is rated only for single ended probe start lamps (ANSI M58). You need an ANSI M80 ballast but the bare ballasts are only made to order for lighting manufacturers. They are available fully assembled inside an enclosure. Other option is to use an electronic ballast.
A m80 like this?
https://hamiltontechnology.com/index...product_id=180




Quote:
Assembled 250 watt M80 ballast in a black aluminum enclosure
Powerful, High Performance, Reliable with Long Rated Life
Use with any 250 watt Metal Halide Double-Ended HQI or Pulse Start 250 watt mogul based lamp
Includes: 3 prong quick disconnect, 6 foot grounded power cord, louvers for cooling and solid mount rubber feet
Replacement ballast compatible with Hamilton, Sunlight Supply and Lumateck 3 prong quick disconnect
Optional 12 ft lamp cord with 3 prong male quick disconnect. Plugs into our ballast on one end & has 3 wires (black, white, green) at the other end



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Unread 09/29/2020, 01:03 AM   #25
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Yes that Hamilton ballast is an assembled M80 ballast. The bare ballasts (core and coil, capacitor and ignitor kit) are typically not available anymore. Ballast choices have slimmed down even for the lighting manufacturers.


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