tyohoon III?

arizona tech · 01/17/2006, 07:15 PM

i got this unit a week ago made some ro/di water and had a tds reading of 0, today i open the ff valve and di valve for a few minutes and go and make water the tds is at 70, crap,anybody have this problem before?, so i turn di and ff valves for 10 minutes and make water and get a 0 tds reading, do i have to flush the system like that every time? and what is a good ro tds reading?

coolie · 01/17/2006, 07:28 PM

As I understand, you are supposed to flush the line every time because the plastic tubing can cause the TDS to be high. I have no personal experience as I am hooking my Typhoon III up tonight.

javajaws · 01/17/2006, 07:28 PM

Hmmm...haven't had that problem...may want to call airwaterice and ask them. Did you open the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds after doing the FF like the manual recommends?

As for RO TDS...mine is around 3-4 TDS (75 GPD membrane).

arizona tech · 01/17/2006, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by javajaws
Hmmm...haven't had that problem...may want to call airwaterice and ask them. Did you open the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds after doing the FF like the manual recommends?

As for RO TDS...mine is around 3-4 TDS (75 GPD membrane).

in the manual it says open di bypass and fast flush valves at the same time.and let run 1-2 minutes of 3 or more days of non use. great unit i got tds down to 0 on ro/di if i open my ro valve i get like 70tds if i do di and ff valves the tds goes down,i am believing the previous post about the lines having to be blown out,plus the water sucks out here to

javajaws · 01/17/2006, 08:02 PM

My instructions say to open the DI bypass "right after you fast flush the unit"...which implies the FF should be closed before opening the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds.

arizona tech · 01/17/2006, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by javajaws
My instructions say to open the DI bypass "right after you fast flush the unit"...which implies the FF should be closed before opening the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds.

my jokes dont say that and i went to the web sit to find that cant but i e-mailed them today-so what you do is open ff valve for 30 seconds then you close it after 30 seconds then you open the di bypass for 30 seconds

DamageInc · 01/17/2006, 08:11 PM

I bought that system and could never get my ro tds below 34. Returned it and bought a Kent Marine Hi-S ro/di unit. Works much better.

AZDesertRat · 01/17/2006, 08:14 PM

How long did you let the unit run before testing the TDS. It needs to settle down a bit so wait a couple of minutes before testing. Also was you tester cleaned after the last round of testing and were you using a squeaky clean polished glass to test the water in?
I have never flushed my RO membrane in 7 years of use and have never had a problem even here in Phoenix where the TDS is horrible. My raw water TDS averages 600 to 800, RO only product water averages 8 to 13 and RO/DI stays at 0 fro around 200 gallons before I change the resin.
I get about 2+ years out of a membrane with very heavy use for drinking water, icemaker and aquarium water. I have yet to see any scientific evidence flushing a residential size membrane does anything at all except give you a warm and fuzzy.

javajaws · 01/17/2006, 08:18 PM

The online instructions say to open the FF and DI bypass at the same time only on startup or after 3 days of non-use. I don't ever do this.

The instructions included with my unit talk about using the FF before or after using the unit at any time (an optional step)...it says to open the FF (but doesn't say for how long). It says to then close the FF and then open the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds. Then make RO/DI water.

arizona tech · 01/17/2006, 08:31 PM

my instructions dont say that i tried doing what you said i opened my ff valve and get no pressure until i open my di bypass valve

javajaws · 01/17/2006, 08:42 PM

"no pressure"? You mean you don't get anything going out the waste line?

arizona tech · 01/17/2006, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by javajaws
"no pressure"? You mean you don't get anything going out the waste line?

yea, i did like you said i opened my di bypass for a while and took a tds reading of 30 i got i guess i should have let it purge it self for a couple of minutes longer, thank you a bunch,and do you do top offs with ro water or ro/di water

AZDesertRat · 01/17/2006, 09:16 PM

Always RO/DI. Even with the Typhoon III you will still have a TDS of between 8 and 15 or so around here. I hope you got the 75 GPD and not the 100 GPD. There is a major difference between the two with our water quality.

javajaws · 01/17/2006, 09:16 PM

Everything that goes into my tank is RO/DI only.

javajaws · 01/17/2006, 09:20 PM

I feel for you AZ guys...everytime I have to go there I think I'm gonna dry up into a raisin. Do you guys do anything with your waste water out there? Pond? Dump it into the lawn (if you even have one)? Mister?

AZDesertRat · 01/17/2006, 09:26 PM

Most wastewater in the Phoenix area is used as cooling water for the Palo Verde Nuclear Plant. Most smaller plants either do groundwater recharge or direct reuse on golf courses and green belts.

arizona tech · 01/17/2006, 09:34 PM

i got the 75 gpd the reason i got the unit is from az desert rat talking about it is a great unit

AZDesertRat · 01/17/2006, 09:43 PM

If you still have problems with it e-mail Walter at AWI. He is great at answering questions and will make things right if you do have any hardware problems.

tack-msv · 01/25/2006, 09:53 AM

What happens if you turn on the fast flush and forget to turn it off for a few hours. Does it compromise the membrane?

TBone303 · 01/25/2006, 10:27 AM

I don't mess with the fast flush, every time I use it my TDS goes up, I wish Air water and Ice would give you better instructions of how to use their equipment.

jeffbrig · 01/25/2006, 12:03 PM

I would suggest that everyone take a few minutes to look over their RO/DI (or a diagram) and really understand what it's doing and what each valve is there for. After that things will make a lot more sense to you.

The "DI" valve is a DI Bypass. It takes product water after the RO membrane and dumps it straight into the drain line. Essentially, your membrane is producing RO water, but you're discarding it.

The "FF" valve is a fast flush. It simply bypasses the flow restrictor on the dirty side of the RO membrane. In theory this high flow helps flush whatever may be caught by the RO membrane.

My Typhoon III produces 0-1tds water from the RO membrane (I have low TDS to begin with, 35-40). Every time I turn it on, the initial RO product water shows 25+ tds for the first minute or so. From what I understand, this is normal for a unit that is left sitting for several days. Not a big deal, but why use up the DI processing unnecessarily dirty water?

To combat this, I open the DI bypass line, allow it to discard the initial dirty water. Then I open the output line that goes to my tank and close the DI bypass. The RO-output TDS drops to 0 or 1 in just a few seconds. Only very rarely have I touched the FF valve, mainly because I'm not convinced it's critical (like AZDesertRat said above).

My 2Ã‚Â¢

01/17/2006, 07:15 PM	#1
arizona tech Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: south elgin Posts: 342	tyohoon III? i got this unit a week ago made some ro/di water and had a tds reading of 0, today i open the ff valve and di valve for a few minutes and go and make water the tds is at 70, crap,anybody have this problem before?, so i turn di and ff valves for 10 minutes and make water and get a 0 tds reading, do i have to flush the system like that every time? and what is a good ro tds reading?

01/17/2006, 07:28 PM	#3
javajaws Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 1,620	Hmmm...haven't had that problem...may want to call airwaterice and ask them. Did you open the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds after doing the FF like the manual recommends? As for RO TDS...mine is around 3-4 TDS (75 GPD membrane). __________________ Everyone has an opinion. Accept the fact now that someone isn't going to like yours sooner or later. Current Tank Info: 110g in-wall, ATI 8x54w T5, 2xMP40es, SRO XP-2000i, 2-part Ca/Alk, Apex controlled

01/17/2006, 08:02 PM	#5
javajaws Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 1,620	My instructions say to open the DI bypass "right after you fast flush the unit"...which implies the FF should be closed before opening the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds. __________________ Everyone has an opinion. Accept the fact now that someone isn't going to like yours sooner or later. Current Tank Info: 110g in-wall, ATI 8x54w T5, 2xMP40es, SRO XP-2000i, 2-part Ca/Alk, Apex controlled

01/17/2006, 08:18 PM	#9
javajaws Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 1,620	The online instructions say to open the FF and DI bypass at the same time only on startup or after 3 days of non-use. I don't ever do this. The instructions included with my unit talk about using the FF before or after using the unit at any time (an optional step)...it says to open the FF (but doesn't say for how long). It says to then close the FF and then open the DI bypass for 30-40 seconds. Then make RO/DI water. __________________ Everyone has an opinion. Accept the fact now that someone isn't going to like yours sooner or later. Current Tank Info: 110g in-wall, ATI 8x54w T5, 2xMP40es, SRO XP-2000i, 2-part Ca/Alk, Apex controlled

01/17/2006, 08:42 PM	#11
javajaws Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 1,620	"no pressure"? You mean you don't get anything going out the waste line? __________________ Everyone has an opinion. Accept the fact now that someone isn't going to like yours sooner or later. Current Tank Info: 110g in-wall, ATI 8x54w T5, 2xMP40es, SRO XP-2000i, 2-part Ca/Alk, Apex controlled

01/17/2006, 07:28 PM	#2
coolie Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 309	As I understand, you are supposed to flush the line every time because the plastic tubing can cause the TDS to be high. I have no personal experience as I am hooking my Typhoon III up tonight.

01/17/2006, 08:11 PM	#7
DamageInc Moved On Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: WPB, Florida Posts: 162	I bought that system and could never get my ro tds below 34. Returned it and bought a Kent Marine Hi-S ro/di unit. Works much better.

01/17/2006, 08:14 PM	#8
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	How long did you let the unit run before testing the TDS. It needs to settle down a bit so wait a couple of minutes before testing. Also was you tester cleaned after the last round of testing and were you using a squeaky clean polished glass to test the water in? I have never flushed my RO membrane in 7 years of use and have never had a problem even here in Phoenix where the TDS is horrible. My raw water TDS averages 600 to 800, RO only product water averages 8 to 13 and RO/DI stays at 0 fro around 200 gallons before I change the resin. I get about 2+ years out of a membrane with very heavy use for drinking water, icemaker and aquarium water. I have yet to see any scientific evidence flushing a residential size membrane does anything at all except give you a warm and fuzzy.

01/17/2006, 08:31 PM	#10
arizona tech Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: south elgin Posts: 342	my instructions dont say that i tried doing what you said i opened my ff valve and get no pressure until i open my di bypass valve

01/17/2006, 09:16 PM	#13
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Always RO/DI. Even with the Typhoon III you will still have a TDS of between 8 and 15 or so around here. I hope you got the 75 GPD and not the 100 GPD. There is a major difference between the two with our water quality.

01/17/2006, 09:20 PM	#15
javajaws Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 1,620	I feel for you AZ guys...everytime I have to go there I think I'm gonna dry up into a raisin. Do you guys do anything with your waste water out there? Pond? Dump it into the lawn (if you even have one)? Mister? __________________ Everyone has an opinion. Accept the fact now that someone isn't going to like yours sooner or later. Current Tank Info: 110g in-wall, ATI 8x54w T5, 2xMP40es, SRO XP-2000i, 2-part Ca/Alk, Apex controlled

01/17/2006, 09:26 PM	#16
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Most wastewater in the Phoenix area is used as cooling water for the Palo Verde Nuclear Plant. Most smaller plants either do groundwater recharge or direct reuse on golf courses and green belts.

01/17/2006, 09:34 PM	#17
arizona tech Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: south elgin Posts: 342	i got the 75 gpd the reason i got the unit is from az desert rat talking about it is a great unit

01/17/2006, 09:43 PM	#18
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	If you still have problems with it e-mail Walter at AWI. He is great at answering questions and will make things right if you do have any hardware problems.

01/25/2006, 09:53 AM	#19
tack-msv Moved On Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Scottsville Virginia Posts: 214	What happens if you turn on the fast flush and forget to turn it off for a few hours. Does it compromise the membrane?

01/25/2006, 10:27 AM	#20
TBone303 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: denver Posts: 192	I don't mess with the fast flush, every time I use it my TDS goes up, I wish Air water and Ice would give you better instructions of how to use their equipment.

01/25/2006, 12:03 PM	#21
jeffbrig Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Posts: 5,548	I would suggest that everyone take a few minutes to look over their RO/DI (or a diagram) and really understand what it's doing and what each valve is there for. After that things will make a lot more sense to you. The "DI" valve is a DI Bypass. It takes product water after the RO membrane and dumps it straight into the drain line. Essentially, your membrane is producing RO water, but you're discarding it. The "FF" valve is a fast flush. It simply bypasses the flow restrictor on the dirty side of the RO membrane. In theory this high flow helps flush whatever may be caught by the RO membrane. My Typhoon III produces 0-1tds water from the RO membrane (I have low TDS to begin with, 35-40). Every time I turn it on, the initial RO product water shows 25+ tds for the first minute or so. From what I understand, this is normal for a unit that is left sitting for several days. Not a big deal, but why use up the DI processing unnecessarily dirty water? To combat this, I open the DI bypass line, allow it to discard the initial dirty water. Then I open the output line that goes to my tank and close the DI bypass. The RO-output TDS drops to 0 or 1 in just a few seconds. Only very rarely have I touched the FF valve, mainly because I'm not convinced it's critical (like AZDesertRat said above). My 2Ã‚Â¢ __________________ Beware the power of stupid people in large groups..... Current Tank Info: formerly 250g room divider