Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 anyone have one?

MRCORAL · 02/26/2006, 07:09 PM

Im confused on how to connect this to my sump? Anyone have any pics or advice they can share with me?

Spartan · 02/26/2006, 09:52 PM

What part are you having trouble with? I recall that the instructions suffer a bit from translation.

gill7784 · 02/26/2006, 10:42 PM

I have the optical "eye" positioned in my sump near the return pump. I have the safety overflow float switch in my display. The tube that feeds the water from the bucket mounts to the float switch and dumps directly into my overflow box.

Here is my setup rationale:

The float optical eye will sense a lower level of water in my sump and activate the pump. The pump will dispense kalk top-off water into the overflow box (so no kalk settles on the corals). IF the overflow should fail, the optical eye will sense a decrease of water in the sump and begin to fill the display. With out drain, the float switch in the display will trip and shut off the system.

Here are two pics of my set-up.
Hope this helps.

Josh

MRCORAL · 02/26/2006, 11:42 PM

I just trying to figure were to put everything. Can I do this without putting something in my main tank?

rdavis289 · 02/26/2006, 11:54 PM

Wait a second. The safety cut off switch should be in the sump above the optical eye. That is a "safety" for if and when the eye gets caked over with salt-spray or kalk deposits. When and if it becomes caked over. The osmolator will keep filling the sump until it reaches the safety switch. Now you have to have the switch low enough so in the event of a power failure you still have room for all of the overflow to go into the sump without it overflowing. Right now it looks like the eye is close to the top of the sump and there is no room to put in the safety switch. You will have to reconfigure your sump so it can run how you want it, but have the eye lower to compensate for the inevitable power loss. Sorry if I rambled on too much. I would just hate to see you have a problem with water and think that the product is junk. Hope I helped if not. I will try again and use less words.

Rob

gill7784 · 02/27/2006, 12:08 AM

My tank won't overflow. Well, I suppose it could, but unlikely. I have check valves on both return lines and siphon breaks drilled ABOVE water level. See my occupation??? I am in the Navy, and have the ideal of preventive maintenance and emergency drills imbedded in my psyche. I routinely test the system, and it works perfectly.

Now, ANYTHING can (and probably will) fail at one time or another, but this set-up allows me to sleep at night.

gill7784 · 02/27/2006, 12:11 AM

Oh yeah, read my first post. The water is fed into the DISPALY. Hence, the float switch up top.
The Osmolator is probably the best product I own for my tank. I am not sure how you could surmise that I would label it as junk....

MRCORAL · 02/27/2006, 02:17 PM

Does anyone have some Pics they can share that can help me?

MiddletonMark · 02/27/2006, 03:04 PM

I'd agree with rdavis - I don't understand the emergency cut-off being in the display. As far as I understand, it is meant to be just as he stated - above the eye, in the sump [for when eye gets caked, as stated].

Let's walk thru the function.

Let's say the eye gets caked over w/ stuff ... continues to fill above where it is. If the emergency float is in sump, above eye ... water fills until hits float - alarm sounds + ATO pump cut.
Only change to system is amount of water from eye to float ... no water on floor, nothing.

If the eye is in the overflow/tank - the sump would continue to fill, and unless there's a clog in the drain-to-sump/overflow from the tank ... the sump would overflow, keep overflowing until you observed it.
Thus, if the eye stuck `on' [after a year of reef slime without cleaning] ... the ATO would just fill, and fill, and fill. If I pour water in my overflow ... the tank/overflow doesn't overflow - the sump does.

If you pour 10 gallons of water into your system - it should end up 100% in the sump [not having the tank overflow, not in the overflow] ... thus having the `emergency cut-off' anywhere other than the sump IMO defeats it's purpose.

Does that make sense? Seems like you're over-thinking or something.

Andy O · 02/27/2006, 03:34 PM

I don't have a photo but I can try to explain how I have it set up.

My sump from left to right: Skimmer compartment, short baffle, tall baffle, short baffle, return chamber, fuge.

I have both the high water and the optical eye mounted on the short baffle right before the return chamber with both sensors hanging so that they are in the return chamber. I am also feeding the refill water from the osmolator pump directly into the return chamber.

mikeshook · 02/27/2006, 03:41 PM

I have this Tunze and I agree with RDavis and MiddletonMark. However, i think maybe he doesn't have a drilled tank and is using the backup float valve in the tank in case his overflow box loses siphon....i hope. Otherwise he is wasting his money and should have bought a $5 float valve....

MRCORAL · 02/27/2006, 06:37 PM

No pics?

Spartan · 02/27/2006, 09:00 PM

"I have this Tunze and I agree with RDavis and MiddletonMark. "
I agree as well.
I have the whole thing set up in my sump. You do not need to have anything in your display.

MRCORAL · 02/27/2006, 09:43 PM

Ok, when putting into the sump do you use do you use two rodes or one? The directions suck!

gill7784 · 02/27/2006, 10:13 PM

Correct, my tank is not drilled.

Now, let us not forget a simple feature built into the Osmolator. IF my eye gets caked (I clean it weekly), the Tunze will not pump water for more then 10 min, no matter what the state the eye is in.

So, again... a simple run down of functionality (in my tank).

1. Eye is placed in sump to sense decreased water level.
2. When active, metering pump sends water to display.
3. When water level reaches eye, metering pump stops.
4. IF the HOB overflow loses siphon and water continues to pump to display, float switch trips and disables system.
5. IF return pump fails, water drains below overflow and circulation is lost.
6. IF (BIG IF) the eye malfunctions, the metering pump will pump water into the display for a maximum of 10 minutes before going into fault mode and disabling itself. I have enough room in my sump to accomodate 10 minutes of water via the metering pump.

So, what exactly sounds like a waste of money? I have set the system up to account for many possible scenarios. I have tested all of the above situations, and it works as I inteded.

Spartan · 02/28/2006, 10:16 PM

MrCoral, here's what I did. My set up is modified from the instructions. You might not have the same needs, but hopefully this will help. I have a 1/2" pvc pipe oriented vertically in the sump. There is a pvc "T" connector on the top of the pipe that is attached (screwed onto) to the rim of the sump. I did not want to drill my sump (100g rubbermaid) and the clamps are not large enough to bridge the rim of the sump so I put the pipe in as a scaffodling for the eye and the float valve. The brown guides/holders for the eye and the float safety valve are fixed to the pvc roughly back to back at the appropriate heights for each. You want the valve slightly higher than the eye so that if the eye malfunctions the float valve will activate to halt inflow from the osmolator pump.

MRCORAL · 02/28/2006, 10:19 PM

I have a 29 gal sump glass. Can anyone help?

Spartan · 02/28/2006, 10:24 PM

If you have a 29 g aquarium, you can use the mounting brackets. I think it does not matter if you use one or two as long as you keep the eye at the desired h2o level and the float valve at you safety level. Also Tunze has a forum on RC, where you can post a question to the company directly.

MRCORAL · 03/05/2006, 10:45 AM

Ok guys let me start over so I can get some help. I would like to connect this today being sunday. I have a 58 gal reef ready tank. I have a 29 gal sump.

The sump is the basic idea the water flow in is were the skimmer is.

Then 3 baffles. Then to the fuge. One more baffle then to the return pump. Were should I put this thing in the sump? Any pcis idea for me? Would be great.

Theron · 03/05/2006, 02:36 PM

Mine was pretty easy to install. Took me a while to figure how to get the clamp to work.

Mine is installed in the sump, in the same section the return pump is in. The float switch is installed above the water level sensor.

Here is a pic.

Theron

Anemone · 03/05/2006, 03:26 PM

I have the osmolator all set up on my display (no sump) and think it's quite possibly one of the greatest inventions ever made for our tanks. Well, maybe not that great, but it's pretty amazing!

I also understand where Gill is coming from. He has the cut off located where he has the fill tube located, which is the correct placing. I think everyone was confused because they didn't know he had the water being pumped to the main tank.

Anyways, the "eye" goes on one bracket/railing, while the automatic shut off goes on another (I guess they could go on the same bracket, if there is enough distance between the "on" and "emergency off" levels, but in my display the difference is less than an inch). The instructions are confusing and the bracket/railings leave a bit to be desired, but the system as a whole is tremendous!

FWIW,
Kevin

02/26/2006, 07:09 PM	#1
MRCORAL Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,059	Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 anyone have one? Im confused on how to connect this to my sump? Anyone have any pics or advice they can share with me?

02/26/2006, 09:52 PM	#2
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 705	What part are you having trouble with? I recall that the instructions suffer a bit from translation. __________________ Reef since 95'. 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge Current Tank Info: 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge

02/27/2006, 03:04 PM	#9
MiddletonMark Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 14,441	I'd agree with rdavis - I don't understand the emergency cut-off being in the display. As far as I understand, it is meant to be just as he stated - above the eye, in the sump [for when eye gets caked, as stated]. Let's walk thru the function. Let's say the eye gets caked over w/ stuff ... continues to fill above where it is. If the emergency float is in sump, above eye ... water fills until hits float - alarm sounds + ATO pump cut. Only change to system is amount of water from eye to float ... no water on floor, nothing. If the eye is in the overflow/tank - the sump would continue to fill, and unless there's a clog in the drain-to-sump/overflow from the tank ... the sump would overflow, keep overflowing until you observed it. Thus, if the eye stuck `on' [after a year of reef slime without cleaning] ... the ATO would just fill, and fill, and fill. If I pour water in my overflow ... the tank/overflow doesn't overflow - the sump does. If you pour 10 gallons of water into your system - it should end up 100% in the sump [not having the tank overflow, not in the overflow] ... thus having the `emergency cut-off' anywhere other than the sump IMO defeats it's purpose. Does that make sense? Seems like you're over-thinking or something. __________________ read a lot, think for yourself Current Tank Info: 58g stony reef [250w10k, 250w 20k MH, 2x vho act, Octopus150, 6060 + 6000] ; 60g mixed tub

02/27/2006, 09:00 PM	#13
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 705	"I have this Tunze and I agree with RDavis and MiddletonMark. " I agree as well. I have the whole thing set up in my sump. You do not need to have anything in your display. __________________ Reef since 95'. 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge Current Tank Info: 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge

02/28/2006, 10:16 PM	#16
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 705	MrCoral, here's what I did. My set up is modified from the instructions. You might not have the same needs, but hopefully this will help. I have a 1/2" pvc pipe oriented vertically in the sump. There is a pvc "T" connector on the top of the pipe that is attached (screwed onto) to the rim of the sump. I did not want to drill my sump (100g rubbermaid) and the clamps are not large enough to bridge the rim of the sump so I put the pipe in as a scaffodling for the eye and the float valve. The brown guides/holders for the eye and the float safety valve are fixed to the pvc roughly back to back at the appropriate heights for each. You want the valve slightly higher than the eye so that if the eye malfunctions the float valve will activate to halt inflow from the osmolator pump. __________________ Reef since 95'. 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge Current Tank Info: 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge

02/26/2006, 10:42 PM	#3
gill7784 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 77	I have the optical "eye" positioned in my sump near the return pump. I have the safety overflow float switch in my display. The tube that feeds the water from the bucket mounts to the float switch and dumps directly into my overflow box. Here is my setup rationale: The float optical eye will sense a lower level of water in my sump and activate the pump. The pump will dispense kalk top-off water into the overflow box (so no kalk settles on the corals). IF the overflow should fail, the optical eye will sense a decrease of water in the sump and begin to fill the display. With out drain, the float switch in the display will trip and shut off the system. Here are two pics of my set-up. Hope this helps. Josh

02/26/2006, 11:42 PM	#4
MRCORAL Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,059	I just trying to figure were to put everything. Can I do this without putting something in my main tank?

02/26/2006, 11:54 PM	#5
rdavis289 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Post Falls Posts: 46	Wait a second. The safety cut off switch should be in the sump above the optical eye. That is a "safety" for if and when the eye gets caked over with salt-spray or kalk deposits. When and if it becomes caked over. The osmolator will keep filling the sump until it reaches the safety switch. Now you have to have the switch low enough so in the event of a power failure you still have room for all of the overflow to go into the sump without it overflowing. Right now it looks like the eye is close to the top of the sump and there is no room to put in the safety switch. You will have to reconfigure your sump so it can run how you want it, but have the eye lower to compensate for the inevitable power loss. Sorry if I rambled on too much. I would just hate to see you have a problem with water and think that the product is junk. Hope I helped if not. I will try again and use less words. Rob

02/27/2006, 12:08 AM	#6
gill7784 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 77	My tank won't overflow. Well, I suppose it could, but unlikely. I have check valves on both return lines and siphon breaks drilled ABOVE water level. See my occupation??? I am in the Navy, and have the ideal of preventive maintenance and emergency drills imbedded in my psyche. I routinely test the system, and it works perfectly. Now, ANYTHING can (and probably will) fail at one time or another, but this set-up allows me to sleep at night.

02/27/2006, 12:11 AM	#7
gill7784 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 77	Oh yeah, read my first post. The water is fed into the DISPALY. Hence, the float switch up top. The Osmolator is probably the best product I own for my tank. I am not sure how you could surmise that I would label it as junk....

02/27/2006, 02:17 PM	#8
MRCORAL Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,059	Does anyone have some Pics they can share that can help me?

02/27/2006, 03:34 PM	#10
Andy O Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 201	I don't have a photo but I can try to explain how I have it set up. My sump from left to right: Skimmer compartment, short baffle, tall baffle, short baffle, return chamber, fuge. I have both the high water and the optical eye mounted on the short baffle right before the return chamber with both sensors hanging so that they are in the return chamber. I am also feeding the refill water from the osmolator pump directly into the return chamber.

02/27/2006, 03:41 PM	#11
mikeshook Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Charlotte/Houston Posts: 147	I have this Tunze and I agree with RDavis and MiddletonMark. However, i think maybe he doesn't have a drilled tank and is using the backup float valve in the tank in case his overflow box loses siphon....i hope. Otherwise he is wasting his money and should have bought a $5 float valve....

02/27/2006, 06:37 PM	#12
MRCORAL Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,059	No pics?

02/27/2006, 09:43 PM	#14
MRCORAL Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,059	Ok, when putting into the sump do you use do you use two rodes or one? The directions suck!

02/27/2006, 10:13 PM	#15
gill7784 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 77	Correct, my tank is not drilled. Now, let us not forget a simple feature built into the Osmolator. IF my eye gets caked (I clean it weekly), the Tunze will not pump water for more then 10 min, no matter what the state the eye is in. So, again... a simple run down of functionality (in my tank). 1. Eye is placed in sump to sense decreased water level. 2. When active, metering pump sends water to display. 3. When water level reaches eye, metering pump stops. 4. IF the HOB overflow loses siphon and water continues to pump to display, float switch trips and disables system. 5. IF return pump fails, water drains below overflow and circulation is lost. 6. IF (BIG IF) the eye malfunctions, the metering pump will pump water into the display for a maximum of 10 minutes before going into fault mode and disabling itself. I have enough room in my sump to accomodate 10 minutes of water via the metering pump. So, what exactly sounds like a waste of money? I have set the system up to account for many possible scenarios. I have tested all of the above situations, and it works as I inteded.

02/28/2006, 10:19 PM	#17
MRCORAL Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,059	I have a 29 gal sump glass. Can anyone help?

02/28/2006, 10:24 PM	#18
Spartan Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Western New York Posts: 705	If you have a 29 g aquarium, you can use the mounting brackets. I think it does not matter if you use one or two as long as you keep the eye at the desired h2o level and the float valve at you safety level. Also Tunze has a forum on RC, where you can post a question to the company directly. __________________ Reef since 95'. 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge Current Tank Info: 180g, 100g sump, 55 g refuge

03/05/2006, 10:45 AM	#19
MRCORAL Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,059	Ok guys let me start over so I can get some help. I would like to connect this today being sunday. I have a 58 gal reef ready tank. I have a 29 gal sump. The sump is the basic idea the water flow in is were the skimmer is. Then 3 baffles. Then to the fuge. One more baffle then to the return pump. Were should I put this thing in the sump? Any pcis idea for me? Would be great.

03/05/2006, 02:36 PM	#20
Theron Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 110	Mine was pretty easy to install. Took me a while to figure how to get the clamp to work. Mine is installed in the sump, in the same section the return pump is in. The float switch is installed above the water level sensor. Here is a pic. Theron

03/05/2006, 03:26 PM	#21
Anemone Cloning Around Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Valencia, California Posts: 25,267	I have the osmolator all set up on my display (no sump) and think it's quite possibly one of the greatest inventions ever made for our tanks. Well, maybe not that great, but it's pretty amazing! I also understand where Gill is coming from. He has the cut off located where he has the fill tube located, which is the correct placing. I think everyone was confused because they didn't know he had the water being pumped to the main tank. Anyways, the "eye" goes on one bracket/railing, while the automatic shut off goes on another (I guess they could go on the same bracket, if there is enough distance between the "on" and "emergency off" levels, but in my display the difference is less than an inch). The instructions are confusing and the bracket/railings leave a bit to be desired, but the system as a whole is tremendous! FWIW, Kevin __________________ Back in the pool, swimming with the sharks... Current Tank Info: Red Sea 425XL w/Kessil AP700, Vertex 180i Skimmer, 2 x Vortech MP40s