30 gallon lighting upgrade: VHO--> Halide (pics!)

Stephany · 03/02/2006, 10:51 PM

Tank: 30 gallon~16" deep, 36" long, 12" front to back.
(There's a 15 gallon sump underneath)

I want to keep: a planted marine tank, crocea, an anemone, and some sweet table acros. :P

Current setup: TWO 24" 75 watt VHOs
The Underside of my lid, is about 5" exactly from the top of my water, that's without lamp mounts or any of that.

Problems:

1. I didn't build my canopy. I'd like to upgrade without changing it, or in a way it wouldn't require me to have an electric power tool. (I have a drill & a hand saw).

2. My wood shop skills/construction ability doesn't get much farther than lincoln logs. (LFS made my canopy)

3. My VHO ballast is 6 months old.. could I keep that for actinic light?

4. My canopy does not have an open back, but I could probably do that.

I guess, what I'm asking is if I'd like to keep my VHOs & convert them to all actinic..

If I should do 70, 150, or 175 watt metal halides. I currently have 150 TOTAL VHO, & my rock stack is kinda high:

I really don't use/need a chiller. I'd *really* rather not have to purchase one.

Thank you for your suggestions in advance...!

jrallison · 03/02/2006, 11:17 PM

You may want to consider T5's? Or add another VHO bulb?

I have a feeling your going to be getting way too much heat with MH over a 30g, but I could be wrong

Blown 346 · 03/03/2006, 12:12 AM

Yes you could keep the VHO's for actinics, If you go halide I would get a 175 watt halide, cut the back off thre canopy so it is open and install 2 decent sized fans to help keep things cool.

Also you will want tomake sure the halide has a covering over it so the bulb doesnt get splashed and shatter.

fish1219 · 03/03/2006, 07:34 AM

I have a 45Gal, Its the same format as a 30Gal but taller. I was running 3 95watt 36" VHOs on it and have been able to keep everything I wanted including SPS. The SPS's do not grow fast but they grow. I switched out 2 of the VHOs for T5s and have increase growth in the SPS's. The tank is also brighter. As for your canopy I see you are in Syracuse. I'm in Vestal, NY about 1 hr south of you. I'm upgrading to a 90Gal and will not longer need my 45Gal. I'll be selling my 45Gal Tank/Stand if interested. Also I made a wood canopy that can handle 3-36" lights that I'll also be selling. This canopy may fit your needs. You would have to provide your own end caps/ballast etc. as I'll be moving them to the 90gal.

Stephany · 03/03/2006, 10:29 AM

I think I could manage cutting the back of the canopy open, well at least some of it. The ballast is mounted on the back of the right side.
What would I cover the halide with... ? I don't know how large halide bulbs are, but I'm thinking it would be real close to the top of the water. See how my canopy opens up top? I don't know how to raise it and disguse a halide unless I cut a hole in the middle of the top... and then built something around it. How messy.
I would like my sps to grow fast, because I don't have much patience.
I think I'd rather go with halide, because the less bulbs, the better for me.
fish1219: I wish I knew that 6 months ago. I just got the tank, and paid for a custom built canopy to match the black stand... Although it's very tempting.. is it drilled?

Blown 346 · 03/04/2006, 01:18 AM

With any halide, you want them to be atleast 6 inches from the water surface. But most have there halides anywhere from 6 to 12 inches from the waters surface. Otherwise you are at risk of a temperature problem in the tank with the bulb being so close to the water.

If you are going to use a retrofit kit for the halide then I would get a piece of acrylic and get it under the bulbso water dosnt hit it. Otherwise most halides come with a splash guard.
Halide bulbs range in size, the double ended HQI's are about 6 inches long and 2 inches wide.
The single ended screw in type halides are about the same size but about 3 inches wide.

Stephany · 03/04/2006, 02:59 AM

Thanks

Stephany · 03/06/2006, 01:46 PM

What if..........
I take the top off the canopy. And hang a pendant light at a little above the top of it.
Maybe leave just enough room for VHO Actinics at the very front, and very back of the top of the canopy.
I will probably order something online, but I have no idea what to get.
Retrofit = Um, an old outfit that you can now fit into.
Seriously though, I'm debating on getting something that's just made up already. One of the wire covers popped off of my yellow VHO wires, and there's two bare now. I don't know if they should be touching or not. Agh..

Stephany · 03/07/2006, 03:52 PM

bump... !

Stephany · 03/13/2006, 12:45 PM

I have been looking at T5s... I was on the icecap website but I'm still confused.
Can I run T5s on my Icecap 430 electronic ballast?
If so, how many VHO can I run, if any at the same time?
Thank you!!

fish1219 · 03/13/2006, 06:46 PM

Hello, From what I understand you can run 2 T5HO lamps on a 430. The 48" lamps (54Watt) will run at 80Watts. I do now know what the 36" lamps will run at.

Stephany · 03/14/2006, 01:26 PM

I don't think I can fit 36" into my canopy unless I cut into the sides of it where the endcaps would be.

As long as I'd be cutting into it... What do you guys think about one of clamp-on Coralife Aqualife Advanced Lighting Fixtures?

I could cut in a groove to the back of the canopy, and that way still have the canopy to prevent my fairy wrasse from jumping ship, but man.. this is such a headache.

03/02/2006, 10:51 PM	#1
Stephany Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,278	30 gallon lighting upgrade: VHO--> Halide (pics!) Tank: 30 gallon~16" deep, 36" long, 12" front to back. (There's a 15 gallon sump underneath) I want to keep: a planted marine tank, crocea, an anemone, and some sweet table acros. :P Current setup: TWO 24" 75 watt VHOs The Underside of my lid, is about 5" exactly from the top of my water, that's without lamp mounts or any of that. Problems: 1. I didn't build my canopy. I'd like to upgrade without changing it, or in a way it wouldn't require me to have an electric power tool. (I have a drill & a hand saw). 2. My wood shop skills/construction ability doesn't get much farther than lincoln logs. (LFS made my canopy) 3. My VHO ballast is 6 months old.. could I keep that for actinic light? 4. My canopy does not have an open back, but I could probably do that. I guess, what I'm asking is if I'd like to keep my VHOs & convert them to all actinic.. If I should do 70, 150, or 175 watt metal halides. I currently have 150 TOTAL VHO, & my rock stack is kinda high: I really don't use/need a chiller. I'd really rather not have to purchase one. Thank you for your suggestions in advance...!

03/02/2006, 11:17 PM	#2
jrallison Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Arkansas Posts: 166	You may want to consider T5's? Or add another VHO bulb? I have a feeling your going to be getting way too much heat with MH over a 30g, but I could be wrong

03/03/2006, 12:12 AM	#3
Blown 346 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Rockford, Illinois Posts: 6,596	Yes you could keep the VHO's for actinics, If you go halide I would get a 175 watt halide, cut the back off thre canopy so it is open and install 2 decent sized fans to help keep things cool. Also you will want tomake sure the halide has a covering over it so the bulb doesnt get splashed and shatter.

03/03/2006, 07:34 AM	#4
fish1219 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 378	I have a 45Gal, Its the same format as a 30Gal but taller. I was running 3 95watt 36" VHOs on it and have been able to keep everything I wanted including SPS. The SPS's do not grow fast but they grow. I switched out 2 of the VHOs for T5s and have increase growth in the SPS's. The tank is also brighter. As for your canopy I see you are in Syracuse. I'm in Vestal, NY about 1 hr south of you. I'm upgrading to a 90Gal and will not longer need my 45Gal. I'll be selling my 45Gal Tank/Stand if interested. Also I made a wood canopy that can handle 3-36" lights that I'll also be selling. This canopy may fit your needs. You would have to provide your own end caps/ballast etc. as I'll be moving them to the 90gal.

03/03/2006, 10:29 AM	#5
Stephany Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,278	I think I could manage cutting the back of the canopy open, well at least some of it. The ballast is mounted on the back of the right side. What would I cover the halide with... ? I don't know how large halide bulbs are, but I'm thinking it would be real close to the top of the water. See how my canopy opens up top? I don't know how to raise it and disguse a halide unless I cut a hole in the middle of the top... and then built something around it. How messy. I would like my sps to grow fast, because I don't have much patience. I think I'd rather go with halide, because the less bulbs, the better for me. fish1219: I wish I knew that 6 months ago. I just got the tank, and paid for a custom built canopy to match the black stand... Although it's very tempting.. is it drilled?

03/04/2006, 01:18 AM	#6
Blown 346 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Rockford, Illinois Posts: 6,596	With any halide, you want them to be atleast 6 inches from the water surface. But most have there halides anywhere from 6 to 12 inches from the waters surface. Otherwise you are at risk of a temperature problem in the tank with the bulb being so close to the water. If you are going to use a retrofit kit for the halide then I would get a piece of acrylic and get it under the bulbso water dosnt hit it. Otherwise most halides come with a splash guard. Halide bulbs range in size, the double ended HQI's are about 6 inches long and 2 inches wide. The single ended screw in type halides are about the same size but about 3 inches wide.

03/04/2006, 02:59 AM	#7
Stephany Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,278	Thanks

03/06/2006, 01:46 PM	#8
Stephany Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,278	What if.......... I take the top off the canopy. And hang a pendant light at a little above the top of it. Maybe leave just enough room for VHO Actinics at the very front, and very back of the top of the canopy. I will probably order something online, but I have no idea what to get. Retrofit = Um, an old outfit that you can now fit into. Seriously though, I'm debating on getting something that's just made up already. One of the wire covers popped off of my yellow VHO wires, and there's two bare now. I don't know if they should be touching or not. Agh..

03/07/2006, 03:52 PM	#9
Stephany Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,278	bump... !

03/13/2006, 12:45 PM	#10
Stephany Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,278	I have been looking at T5s... I was on the icecap website but I'm still confused. Can I run T5s on my Icecap 430 electronic ballast? If so, how many VHO can I run, if any at the same time? Thank you!!

03/13/2006, 06:46 PM	#11
fish1219 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 378	Hello, From what I understand you can run 2 T5HO lamps on a 430. The 48" lamps (54Watt) will run at 80Watts. I do now know what the 36" lamps will run at.

03/14/2006, 01:26 PM	#12
Stephany Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,278	I don't think I can fit 36" into my canopy unless I cut into the sides of it where the endcaps would be. As long as I'd be cutting into it... What do you guys think about one of clamp-on Coralife Aqualife Advanced Lighting Fixtures? I could cut in a groove to the back of the canopy, and that way still have the canopy to prevent my fairy wrasse from jumping ship, but man.. this is such a headache.