float VALVE or float SWITCH for auto top off

HybridFish · 04/07/2006, 03:26 PM

I'm about to set up an auto top off system. My plan was to place pre-mixed kalk solution in a raised bucket and gravity feed it to a float VALVE (kent makes one). When the water gets low the valve opens and kalk gets dosed at the rate of evaporation. In my head, this seems like the most uncomplicating way of doing it.

My problem is that everytime I read something about an auto-topoff system online, they talk about using a float SWITCH. This method NEEDs at least another pump for it to work. This method is also at least $50 more expensive than the float VALVE method.

Am I missing somthing here. What's the PROs and CONs of using either a float VALVE/SWITCH?

xtrstangx · 04/07/2006, 03:29 PM

Float valve= go away on vacation for a week... your top off breaks and releases water CONTINOUSLY into your tank.. 40g tank + 75 gallons per day you are gone = bad bad bad.. Not only will you ruin everything in your tank, you will destroy the floor.

Float switch= Go away on vacation for a week.. at most, if it breaks, you dump 20-32g into your tank.. not too bad, things can still live down to 1.015 (I've had clams/SPS that endured it)..

Which one sounds better?

HybridFish · 04/07/2006, 03:40 PM

The resevoir is only going to be 5gallons of KALKWASSER solution or water... Sorry, I forgot to mention that. I'm not planning on attaching a water filtration unit to the top-off system. In either senario, if the either switch breaks, 5g of water won't hurt too much...

xtrstangx · 04/07/2006, 03:45 PM

If you are using a float valve, you need to connect it to something:
a) direct feed off RO/DI
b) gravity-fed from a container above tank

HybridFish · 04/07/2006, 03:51 PM

As mentioned above, I plan on gravity feeding the valve...

HybridFish · 04/07/2006, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by xtrstangx

Float switch= Go away on vacation for a week.. at most, if it breaks, you dump 20-32g into your tank.. not too bad, things can still live down to 1.015 (I've had clams/SPS that endured it)..

How is it possible that "AT MOST" 20-32g will be dumped in the tank. If a switch malfunctions and stays in the on position, wouldn't the thing that it's controlling stay on as well.

Seems like the same outcome as a malfunctioning float valve with the same input connection.

surfjeepzx · 04/07/2006, 03:57 PM

Huh, who, what? Float valves are fine and if you're worried about something breaking or leaking then maybe your in the wrong hobby.

The system you're thinking of setting up is fine. I ran that exact set-up for 5 years in my 40 before I got a 125 and RO. Even now with my 125 I still run the same set-up. The only difference is now I have an RO line to the refill bucket. So instead of making trips to the store for RO, I installed another float valve at the top of the refill bucket which keeps that full. I simply add Kalk into that and walk away.

What I liked about the old set up is when I filled my refill bucket with water I mixed the Kalk for the 5 gallons and didn't touch it again, I knew the mixture was good till it was empty. Now with the top off bucket getting topped off the only difference is I had to determine the rate of evap and then figure my dose.

My 40 used a gallon per day with 4 vho's. My 125 uses about 1.75 gallons with 4 vho's and a MH plus 5 fans.

I work for an airline and travel all the time. Never, not once did I ever worry about my top off leaking. Buy good parts and do the work right and you'll be fine. Certain things you want to buy new and float valves/switches are one of them.

ZOKU · 04/07/2006, 04:09 PM

Good info.

HybridFish · 04/07/2006, 04:10 PM

Thanks sufjeepzx. That's the kind of reply I was looking for. Anyone else want to add to this...

brentp · 04/07/2006, 04:21 PM

I've been using a Kent float valve for years also with out any problems. I have been using a sprikler drip timer behind it that is set to come on for 30 minutes 2x a day so that if the float valve fails the timer will only allow a little extra top off to be added. The drip timer recently failed so I purchased an electronic solenoid and I now have it on a timer.

HybridFish · 04/07/2006, 04:28 PM

Now I'm wondering why most online articles on the subject recommend or use an electronic float switch in their examples.

willieboy240 · 04/07/2006, 04:44 PM

i run 2 float valves in series. one is just a little higer than the other. that way if the bottom on breaks the top on will shut off the top off water. you can get them on ebay for cheap. just search float valve.

HybridFish · 04/12/2006, 09:22 PM

I went w/ a float valve. I'll be installing this as soon as a make a water change/resevoir cabinet to put next to the aquarium. Thanks for the great info.

purelyh2o · 04/12/2006, 09:50 PM

IMO the less going on the safer. Using an all plastic float valve is a pretty safe method for ATO.

Though in defense of the electric valve they typicaly are auto off and will close at the first sign of trouble.

If you are really concerned about floods from the system there are cool little units that you can sit on the floor that have metal feet that are actually conductivity sensors. Whenever water hits the floor and completes the circuit between the feet of the unit it shuts off the supply to the RO system

Food for thought

04/07/2006, 03:26 PM	#1
HybridFish Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 287	float VALVE or float SWITCH for auto top off I'm about to set up an auto top off system. My plan was to place pre-mixed kalk solution in a raised bucket and gravity feed it to a float VALVE (kent makes one). When the water gets low the valve opens and kalk gets dosed at the rate of evaporation. In my head, this seems like the most uncomplicating way of doing it. My problem is that everytime I read something about an auto-topoff system online, they talk about using a float SWITCH. This method NEEDs at least another pump for it to work. This method is also at least $50 more expensive than the float VALVE method. Am I missing somthing here. What's the PROs and CONs of using either a float VALVE/SWITCH?

04/07/2006, 04:09 PM	#8
ZOKU Resident Ninja Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Oshkosh, WI Posts: 560	Good info. __________________ - SCOTT. Check out my homepage to see my build! Current Tank Info: 40B / Super Reef Octopus SRO2000INT / 35-gal. acrylic sump+refuge / 120W LED lighting / Water Blaster 3000 Return... IN PROGRESS!

04/07/2006, 04:21 PM	#10
brentp Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Sacramento Posts: 771	I've been using a Kent float valve for years also with out any problems. I have been using a sprikler drip timer behind it that is set to come on for 30 minutes 2x a day so that if the float valve fails the timer will only allow a little extra top off to be added. The drip timer recently failed so I purchased an electronic solenoid and I now have it on a timer. __________________ Progress is made by lazy men looking for an easier way to do things. Current Tank Info: 150 gallon glass.

04/12/2006, 09:50 PM	#14
purelyh2o Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Altamonte Springs, FL Posts: 454	The simpler the better IMO the less going on the safer. Using an all plastic float valve is a pretty safe method for ATO. Though in defense of the electric valve they typicaly are auto off and will close at the first sign of trouble. If you are really concerned about floods from the system there are cool little units that you can sit on the floor that have metal feet that are actually conductivity sensors. Whenever water hits the floor and completes the circuit between the feet of the unit it shuts off the supply to the RO system Food for thought

04/07/2006, 03:29 PM	#2
xtrstangx Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Shawnee, Kansas Posts: 4,568	Float valve= go away on vacation for a week... your top off breaks and releases water CONTINOUSLY into your tank.. 40g tank + 75 gallons per day you are gone = bad bad bad.. Not only will you ruin everything in your tank, you will destroy the floor. Float switch= Go away on vacation for a week.. at most, if it breaks, you dump 20-32g into your tank.. not too bad, things can still live down to 1.015 (I've had clams/SPS that endured it).. Which one sounds better?

04/07/2006, 03:40 PM	#3
HybridFish Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 287	The resevoir is only going to be 5gallons of KALKWASSER solution or water... Sorry, I forgot to mention that. I'm not planning on attaching a water filtration unit to the top-off system. In either senario, if the either switch breaks, 5g of water won't hurt too much...

04/07/2006, 03:45 PM	#4
xtrstangx Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Shawnee, Kansas Posts: 4,568	If you are using a float valve, you need to connect it to something: a) direct feed off RO/DI b) gravity-fed from a container above tank

04/07/2006, 03:51 PM	#5
HybridFish Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 287	As mentioned above, I plan on gravity feeding the valve...

04/07/2006, 03:57 PM	#7
surfjeepzx Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Wilbur by the Sea, FL Posts: 842	Huh, who, what? Float valves are fine and if you're worried about something breaking or leaking then maybe your in the wrong hobby. The system you're thinking of setting up is fine. I ran that exact set-up for 5 years in my 40 before I got a 125 and RO. Even now with my 125 I still run the same set-up. The only difference is now I have an RO line to the refill bucket. So instead of making trips to the store for RO, I installed another float valve at the top of the refill bucket which keeps that full. I simply add Kalk into that and walk away. What I liked about the old set up is when I filled my refill bucket with water I mixed the Kalk for the 5 gallons and didn't touch it again, I knew the mixture was good till it was empty. Now with the top off bucket getting topped off the only difference is I had to determine the rate of evap and then figure my dose. My 40 used a gallon per day with 4 vho's. My 125 uses about 1.75 gallons with 4 vho's and a MH plus 5 fans. I work for an airline and travel all the time. Never, not once did I ever worry about my top off leaking. Buy good parts and do the work right and you'll be fine. Certain things you want to buy new and float valves/switches are one of them.

04/07/2006, 04:10 PM	#9
HybridFish Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 287	Thanks sufjeepzx. That's the kind of reply I was looking for. Anyone else want to add to this...

04/07/2006, 04:28 PM	#11
HybridFish Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 287	Now I'm wondering why most online articles on the subject recommend or use an electronic float switch in their examples.

04/07/2006, 04:44 PM	#12
willieboy240 Moved On Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: san francisco Posts: 317	i run 2 float valves in series. one is just a little higer than the other. that way if the bottom on breaks the top on will shut off the top off water. you can get them on ebay for cheap. just search float valve.

04/12/2006, 09:22 PM	#13
HybridFish Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 287	I went w/ a float valve. I'll be installing this as soon as a make a water change/resevoir cabinet to put next to the aquarium. Thanks for the great info.