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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:09 PM   #1
John Hartford
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On average how much water could I lose from evaporation?

I have a 210 tank with a sump/fuge, that will be run on 3-4oowatt metal halide with 2 T5. As a rough estimate how much water loss from evaporation can I expect weekly?


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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:18 PM   #2
dc_909
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I don't know, but I lose about 1 gallon a day.

I have an 80 gal w/ 2 150w halides and 4 65w PC.

Don't know if this helps


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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:22 PM   #3
smatter
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I lose a half gal in my 37 daily.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:24 PM   #4
eidillitih
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well, I have a tank the same size with 2-250, 1-400, and 2-6ft vho's and I have to refill my reservior (9gal.) ever three days or so. I estimate my tank evaporate 2 1/2 gal a day. This also has something to do with the fans that blows on the water which increase vaporations.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:28 PM   #5
REEFKEEPA
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It would probably be in your best inerest to hook up an RO/DI unit to an auto top off in your sump. A tank that size will evaporate at least a couple of gallons a day.


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Current Tank Info: 70 Gallon tub drilled, 120Lbs LR, 140Lbs LS, CPR CY194 Sump w/LR trickle, Mag Drive 9.5 return, 2 x Tunze6025 for flow, 2 x Ice Cap 660 running 6 x 95 W lamps
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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:38 PM   #6
ONEMANBAND
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I replace 300ml/hour on a 90 display tank with a medical IV pump. Auto-top-off systems that utilized float switches are too risky, unless the system is engineered to keep tanks salinity stable.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:40 PM   #7
MiddletonMark
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During the spring/fall I tend to lose a gallon or a bit less on my 58.
During summer [A/C] and winter [furnace] IMO I can lose even more, depending on humidity levels.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 01:54 PM   #8
REEFKEEPA
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Mechanical float switches are risky, but so is a dosing pump.
Nothing is "fool proof". What diff does it make on salinity?
Were talking evaporation not salt loss due to creep.


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Current Tank Info: 70 Gallon tub drilled, 120Lbs LR, 140Lbs LS, CPR CY194 Sump w/LR trickle, Mag Drive 9.5 return, 2 x Tunze6025 for flow, 2 x Ice Cap 660 running 6 x 95 W lamps
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Unread 04/10/2006, 02:00 PM   #9
cchoffman
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I think he means if the salinity drops too much from a stuck float valve, it will shut is down.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 02:02 PM   #10
ONEMANBAND
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if a float switch "sticks on" it will flood the system with water and thus reduce the salinity. A dosing pump only pumps the amount you set it at (mine is set for 300ml- same as it would if it was dosing 300ml of saline into a human patient- if it fails- the water will never get to the tank, no chance of quick large salinity change). I have just seen too many "accidents" from float switches sticking, due to bad switch, salt creep, snails, etc... ATO systems can be made a million different ways, my point is if you go with a float switch ,engineer system so if a switch sticks you dont kill the tank.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 02:10 PM   #11
REEFKEEPA
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Fair enough,
Dual contact switches and husbandry are advised.
How much does a reliable dosing pump cost?
Can you feed it right from the output of a RO/DI unit?
If it can be done it would probably be worth it.


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Current Tank Info: 70 Gallon tub drilled, 120Lbs LR, 140Lbs LS, CPR CY194 Sump w/LR trickle, Mag Drive 9.5 return, 2 x Tunze6025 for flow, 2 x Ice Cap 660 running 6 x 95 W lamps
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Unread 04/10/2006, 02:12 PM   #12
outta names
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I lose about 2 gallons a day in my 72


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Unread 04/10/2006, 02:18 PM   #13
ONEMANBAND
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I paid $50 for a used medical IV pump. (if you live near a big city look up used medical supplies) I see them on ebay in the $30-75 range, mine is called a ROSS Flexiflo Companion - I catch my RO/DI water in a big brute trash can. the dosing pump is fed from this can. I do use a float switch from my RO/DI into the trash can to maintain a constant supply of clean water, and have a bulkhead near the top of this can which goes down to a floor drain in case the floatswitch sticks.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 03:58 PM   #14
REEFKEEPA
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Thanks ONEMANBAND,
I will look into this and find out if the pumps can take the water pressure generated by the RO unit. @40psi? If it works I can use this method. Agreed on the float switch flooding issues but as stated previously,engineering safety is the key.I don't have room for a reservoir


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Current Tank Info: 70 Gallon tub drilled, 120Lbs LR, 140Lbs LS, CPR CY194 Sump w/LR trickle, Mag Drive 9.5 return, 2 x Tunze6025 for flow, 2 x Ice Cap 660 running 6 x 95 W lamps
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Unread 04/10/2006, 04:47 PM   #15
Humuhumunuku
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just a little note...keeping your tank and if possible your sump coverd (not a hood acctuall covers that fit over the tank opening) will lower the amount of evaporation by keeping more of the water in.


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Unread 04/10/2006, 06:05 PM   #16
dascharisma
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In my air conditioned house (72 constant temp), on my 90 gallon tank with 2 100 gallon stock tanks as sumps, I lose just over 4 gallons per day. I have 2x 400 w halides and 3x 4ft vho's. I have 3 pfo 4 inch fans on each side of my canopy all blowing the same way. The fans are temp controlled and keep the tank within .3 degrees.

That being said I don't think it would be at all out of line for you to lose 40 gallons per week or more.




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Unread 04/10/2006, 06:13 PM   #17
JmLee
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i lose close to 1 gallon a day in my 60gallon tank.


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