Anyone know what this brown gunk is?

Shooter7 · 04/11/2006, 07:40 PM

Tank is 3 1/2 months old. It was put together with rock from my smaller systems, base rock, and some rock I purchased from a local reefer. This rock was completely clean when I picked it up from him, but interestingly enough, this brown stuff is only growing on the rocks I got from him. I have already gone through a small cyano event at about 1 month of tank age and has long since cleared up. This stuff also doesn't seem to have a light preference and is growing equally in places with full light and almost complete shade. thanks for any help on ID and if you know what it is, how to get rid of it.

fuzz1974 · 04/11/2006, 07:49 PM

It kinda looks like a mix of hair algea and bubble algea. Just a guess.

Fuzz

JmLee · 04/11/2006, 07:50 PM

yay! another cynobacteria outbreak!. yeah those suck, make sure your water params are in check, keep up the water changes and syhpon as much of it as you can. Good luck.

Shooter7 · 04/11/2006, 07:54 PM

What is this, some brown variety of it? I've only ever dealt with the dark red stuff. Water params include nitrates at 2 or less and nondetectable phosphates - salifert tests.

Paintbug · 04/12/2006, 10:01 AM

Dinoflagellates

Shooter7 · 04/12/2006, 10:48 AM

Thanks.

That's just freakin' great.

I'm at work on lunch break so can't go nuts researching this, but the first big thread I read seemed to be all over the place with lighting periods, silicates, phosphates, UV sterilizers, water changes/no water changes, etc etc etc. Don't know about the silicate thing. I used all new aragonite sand and it's only about an inch or maybe a bit more deep. Feeding has been more lately, but still not what I would consider alot, and the fish eat all of it that goes in. I have a TDS meter and watch my water constantly...always at zero to one, if it starts going above one the DI resin gets changed. Just changed the rest of the filters in January. This really, really sucks. This may be the final straw for me if I can't get rid of this stuff. I just barely got this thing up and running with my limited finances as it was. @%T*&#@%$^#!!!

Shooter7 · 04/12/2006, 11:37 AM

FWIW, here's what the tank looks like as of last night. Not really that blue, I just suck at setting my camera up right.

guitar_lord · 04/12/2006, 11:55 AM

hows the flow in your tank? I suffered with dino's for a couple months. I added 2 really powerfull powerheads and it seemed to help a lot - dont worry too much about it... Im pretty sure EVERYONE gets them at some point. - but usually caused by high nitrates - if you're already using RO/DI then you should be set
Good luck

Nice tank BTW

tatoofr · 04/12/2006, 12:02 PM

Hi,
If it is dino's its toxic to fish if eatin.
Keep the Ph up 8.3- 8.4 24.7 . it knocks it out.
You can do this by dripping kalk at night.
Frank

Shooter7 · 04/12/2006, 12:02 PM

mag 12 return, 2 MJ 900's behind the rock piles to help push stuff out from behind them, 2 Seio 1500's in the corners.

Checked my nitrates last night as I hadn't checked them for a bit. They came out at 10, maybe a bit more. Hard to get specific on the Salifert test card. So higher than what I've been seeing to this point, but still not what I would consider very high.

Shooter7 · 04/12/2006, 12:05 PM

Thanks Frank. One thing I haven't been able to get to yet is an auto topoff and kalk. I've been working pretty hard on trying to get something together recently, but finances have been holding me back. I do tend to run a bit low on the pH and alk. I have some b-ionic handy, just not sure how much I'll need to use on this big of a system. I'll have to check the calculator. Thinking about knocking out the lights for a few days too, as per some of the reading I'm doing.

tatoofr · 04/12/2006, 12:07 PM

Your welcome,
you can make a drip with a water container.
See Sprung vol 1 on dino's.

Frank

Shooter7 · 04/12/2006, 12:20 PM

Ok, so my gameplan for right now is killing the lights for 2 - 3 days, blocking off the tank from ambient light, and trying to bring up my pH and alk during this time. Sound like a reasonable plan?

tatoofr · 04/12/2006, 12:24 PM

Hi,
Keeping the lights off will make it harder to keep the ph up ?

Frank

The Reefer91 · 04/12/2006, 01:09 PM

don't give into algae. it sucks, but it's no reason to quit. just zap those buggers like they keyed your car!
here's a link for a dripper
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...se.asp?CartId=
good luck

Shooter7 · 04/12/2006, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tatoofr
Hi,
Keeping the lights off will make it harder to keep the ph up ?

Frank

Does the fact that I run a light on my fuge 24/7 help that any?

Thanks for the link.

tatoofr · 04/12/2006, 01:37 PM

Hi,
Yes that will help

Shooter7 · 04/12/2006, 05:49 PM

Will this stuff have any effect on shrimp? I have a cleaner who has been MIA for about 3 days now.

04/11/2006, 07:40 PM	#1
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	Anyone know what this brown gunk is? Tank is 3 1/2 months old. It was put together with rock from my smaller systems, base rock, and some rock I purchased from a local reefer. This rock was completely clean when I picked it up from him, but interestingly enough, this brown stuff is only growing on the rocks I got from him. I have already gone through a small cyano event at about 1 month of tank age and has long since cleared up. This stuff also doesn't seem to have a light preference and is growing equally in places with full light and almost complete shade. thanks for any help on ID and if you know what it is, how to get rid of it. __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return

04/11/2006, 07:49 PM	#2
fuzz1974 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: indiana Posts: 369	It kinda looks like a mix of hair algea and bubble algea. Just a guess. Fuzz __________________ 125 with 175# live rock. 4x150 HQI. 8x39w T-5. Sump/Fuge combo with 2x18w PC. Mag 9.5 & mag 5 for returns. ASM G1x skimmer. Check my gallery for pics... Current Tank Info: Plan on keepin LPS and SPS corals.

04/11/2006, 07:54 PM	#4
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	What is this, some brown variety of it? I've only ever dealt with the dark red stuff. Water params include nitrates at 2 or less and nondetectable phosphates - salifert tests. __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return

04/12/2006, 10:01 AM	#5
Paintbug Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Stoneville, NC Posts: 6,169	Dinoflagellates __________________ Never ask a girl over to see your crabs!! <-Tony-> Current Tank Info: NONE currently

04/12/2006, 10:48 AM	#6
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	Thanks. That's just freakin' great. I'm at work on lunch break so can't go nuts researching this, but the first big thread I read seemed to be all over the place with lighting periods, silicates, phosphates, UV sterilizers, water changes/no water changes, etc etc etc. Don't know about the silicate thing. I used all new aragonite sand and it's only about an inch or maybe a bit more deep. Feeding has been more lately, but still not what I would consider alot, and the fish eat all of it that goes in. I have a TDS meter and watch my water constantly...always at zero to one, if it starts going above one the DI resin gets changed. Just changed the rest of the filters in January. This really, really sucks. This may be the final straw for me if I can't get rid of this stuff. I just barely got this thing up and running with my limited finances as it was. @%T*&#@%$^#!!! __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return

04/11/2006, 07:50 PM	#3
JmLee Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hohensfels, Germany Posts: 1,545	yay! another cynobacteria outbreak!. yeah those suck, make sure your water params are in check, keep up the water changes and syhpon as much of it as you can. Good luck.

04/12/2006, 11:37 AM	#7
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	FWIW, here's what the tank looks like as of last night. Not really that blue, I just suck at setting my camera up right. __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return

04/12/2006, 11:55 AM	#8
guitar_lord Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: London ON Canada Posts: 482	hows the flow in your tank? I suffered with dino's for a couple months. I added 2 really powerfull powerheads and it seemed to help a lot - dont worry too much about it... Im pretty sure EVERYONE gets them at some point. - but usually caused by high nitrates - if you're already using RO/DI then you should be set Good luck Nice tank BTW __________________ -Brian- Current Tank Info: 65 gallon mixed reef Last edited by guitar_lord; 04/12/2006 at 12:05 PM.

04/12/2006, 12:02 PM	#9
tatoofr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Long Island Posts: 1,044	Hi, If it is dino's its toxic to fish if eatin. Keep the Ph up 8.3- 8.4 24.7 . it knocks it out. You can do this by dripping kalk at night. Frank __________________ !20 tech tank ATI T5 Club Current Tank Info: 120 reef

04/12/2006, 12:05 PM	#11
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	Thanks Frank. One thing I haven't been able to get to yet is an auto topoff and kalk. I've been working pretty hard on trying to get something together recently, but finances have been holding me back. I do tend to run a bit low on the pH and alk. I have some b-ionic handy, just not sure how much I'll need to use on this big of a system. I'll have to check the calculator. Thinking about knocking out the lights for a few days too, as per some of the reading I'm doing. __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return

04/12/2006, 12:07 PM	#12
tatoofr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Long Island Posts: 1,044	Your welcome, you can make a drip with a water container. See Sprung vol 1 on dino's. Frank __________________ !20 tech tank ATI T5 Club Current Tank Info: 120 reef

04/12/2006, 12:20 PM	#13
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	Ok, so my gameplan for right now is killing the lights for 2 - 3 days, blocking off the tank from ambient light, and trying to bring up my pH and alk during this time. Sound like a reasonable plan? __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return

04/12/2006, 12:24 PM	#14
tatoofr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Long Island Posts: 1,044	Hi, Keeping the lights off will make it harder to keep the ph up ? Frank __________________ !20 tech tank ATI T5 Club Current Tank Info: 120 reef

04/12/2006, 01:09 PM	#15
The Reefer91 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,250	don't give into algae. it sucks, but it's no reason to quit. just zap those buggers like they keyed your car! here's a link for a dripper http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...se.asp?CartId= good luck __________________ Dan "Every day we fade little by little, 'till there's nothing left of us but the lies we've sown." Current Tank Info: 20g L display: 2x65watt Coralife light, Octopus 150 needle wheel protein skimmer, 1 Koralia 2 and 2 powersweeps, and a DIY sump/fuge.....120G in the works!!!

04/12/2006, 01:37 PM	#17
tatoofr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Long Island Posts: 1,044	Hi, Yes that will help __________________ !20 tech tank ATI T5 Club Current Tank Info: 120 reef

04/12/2006, 05:49 PM	#18
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	Will this stuff have any effect on shrimp? I have a cleaner who has been MIA for about 3 days now. __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return