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Unread 04/13/2006, 03:46 PM   #1
Johnson7
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: St Louis
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Anyone have a Typhoon rodi

I am looking at getting a Typhoon (not a Typhoon III) but I just wanted to be sure it is as good quality as the III. How well does the float switch that comes with it work?


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Unread 04/13/2006, 06:16 PM   #2
Shooter7
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I have a regular Typhoon and have had it for over a year now. Does a great job, I keep the DI fresh so I always have zero TDS. Didn't come with a float valve so can't comment on that. Airwaterice, great customer service, highly recommend.


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Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return
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Unread 04/13/2006, 09:17 PM   #3
Johnson7
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Sounds good, I think I'm gonna take the plunge - best deal I can find for the money


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In most places in the country, voting is looked upon as a right and a duty, but in Chicago it's a sport. In Chicago not only your vote counts, but all kinds of other votes--kids, dead folks, and so on.
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Current Tank Info: AGA 75RR
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Unread 04/14/2006, 07:21 AM   #4
kstuart
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Typhoon is pretty much the same without the bells and whistles, from what i can tell its the exact same hardware without the gauge and tds meeter, mine works great and i love it, the float switch works but i wouldn't trust it 100% for auto top off or anything, i am using it though as a saftey in my ro makeup water but only when i'm home.


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Unread 04/14/2006, 08:51 AM   #5
smleee
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Yes it's essentially the same unit short some pieces. Most important is the TDS meter. If you don't have one you will need to get one. It is the only way to tell if your membrane and DI needs to be changed and if your unit is functioning properly. Second is the DI bypass, you will need this to test the RO water before it goes into the DI as this will let you know if the membrane is functioning/installed properly and also when to change the membrane (I assume you can also just disconnect the tube from the output to the DI temporarily to test it, the "DI bypass" is just a valve you can open up). Next is the pressure gauge, if you are not around 50psi, your production rates will suffer. This is not quite as important if you live in a house/apartment with city water; you should have adequate pressure, but if something is not right with your production you will need this to "debug" and tell you if you need a booster pump. Another is the fast flush, this helps to rid the membrane of contaminants.

eee


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