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04/23/2006, 04:51 PM | #1 |
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Closed Loop Vs. Tunze Streams
I am planning on upgrading my current 90gal. to a 200+ gal. system in the near future dominated by SPS. Which flow set-up will be more beneficial to the animals??
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04/23/2006, 05:34 PM | #2 |
Limestone Cowboy.
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I have had a non wave simulated tank for 3 yrs and its never hurt my sps.
I liked my tunze's they were nice, But i dont like clutter in my tank. I thought it was an eyesore with all those powerheads in my tank, and i never had the crazy flow i get from an eductor and an iwaki, But the wave action was very nice!!!
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If only common sense was common. Current Tank Info: 300 gal marineland deep |
04/23/2006, 06:16 PM | #3 |
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tunze FTW
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04/23/2006, 08:08 PM | #4 |
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I just set up my 215 SPS system (build log on my website) and I have a Dart and OM 4 way on my closed loop. The CL will not provide that laminar flow the Tunze can produce so I'm getting a pair of either 6100's or 6200's.
I also want tons of flow so CL + Tunze's probably are not going to fit everyone's setup.
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Steve - DFWMAS Member Click on the red house to view my build thread Current Tank Info: 215g starboard SPS in-wall, AC Jr, 3 x 250w MH's, 10k Reeflux, 320w VHO actinics, closed loop w/ Sequence Dart and OM 4-Way, Tunze wavebox, VorTech, 2x modded MJ 1200's, ASM G4 recirc/meshwheel, Geo 618 Ca reactor, custom Melev sump, Mag 9.5 return |
04/24/2006, 09:45 AM | #5 |
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Thanks for the input guys.
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04/24/2006, 10:05 AM | #6 |
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I prefer Tunzes to a CL. Yes, the Tunzes can be an eyesore but they consume FAR less power, can be moved around as necessary and flow can be modulated with a multicontroller. With a closed loop, you also have to take into account that every union you have is a potential leak. Big CL pumps = big energy consumption and can be a big increase in heat.
In the 36L x 24W x 18H SPS-dominant system I'm buildling, I'm going to go with 2 6000s (maybe 6100s) and use a Wavy Sea on my return. I just hope that the sand stays in place |
04/24/2006, 11:12 AM | #7 |
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Super Squirt
Just set up new tank with Oceansmotions Suoer Squirt and an Iwaki 100. Clean and a pleasure to have set up. No more power heads in the tanks falling off and blasting your sps.
Good luck!
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120 gal. Euro design glass tank with three 400 watt PFO de and actinics. Closed loop Oceanmotion Super Squirt. 40 gal refugium, 120 gal sump. Knop/Geo reactors. All sps!! Current Tank Info: 120 Euro all sps |
04/24/2006, 04:16 PM | #8 |
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bump
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04/24/2006, 04:38 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
buy 1 tunze 6060 and mount it to the wavy sea! The new adaptor should be available next month. You could even add another wavy sea for the return pump and still same 100s of dollars. My consultation fee is only $40, I'll PM you my address so you can send me a check.
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Greg Carroll I will be at REEF-A-PALOOZA! SPS = Stability Promotes Success Be wary of advice coming from those who will not show you the fruits of their success! Current Tank Info: building: 250g AGE Euro tank, Abyzz A200, Vertex Supra-G filtration, Ecotech Radion Pro LEDs, ... |
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04/24/2006, 05:53 PM | #10 | |
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Your check is in the mail, though |
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04/24/2006, 06:56 PM | #11 |
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If you don't like the look of pumps in the tank, you can get a couple of deco rocks ( I have )
I don't think there is a easier or cheaper way to get 3-5000 GPH of flow in a tank without the streams I rippped out the CL after the on and off micro bubbles |
04/24/2006, 09:58 PM | #12 | |
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For 2 Tunze 6000s, with proper setup I am sure there will be no sand storm.
Quote:
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Explore the cheapest method to maintain SPS! Current Tank Info: 172L/45G SPS Tank |
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04/25/2006, 02:08 AM | #13 |
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I don't see tunze power heads as being more efficient than a good pump on a closed loop. Consider this: how would you measure the flow from a tunze? As a relevant aside, the entire wattage of a submerged powerhead goes to heat the water, whereas only some of it for an externally mounted pump does. IMO, powerheads clutter and cls require holes partway down the tank. If a problem develops at a bulkhead, you might need to drain the tank to fix it, especially with the trend for bottom drilling. How about lowering the overlow in relation to the top of the tank, and surging for 100% of the flow?
G1 |
04/25/2006, 03:21 AM | #14 |
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Tunze is better but your coral wont die without it.
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04/25/2006, 10:39 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Mike |
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04/25/2006, 10:47 AM | #16 | ||
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Quote:
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getoyute: IMO, if you're looking to provide the best "natural" flow for your tank inhabitants, go with TUNZE. With a multicontroller, you have an array of options to choose from that will allow you to customize the flow pattern in your tank. And sure, even after you add up the cost of the large external pump, all the pipes, fittings, unions, BVs, bulkheads, and the OM, a TUNZE system is still a little more $ up front, but in time you'll gain most of that back through: ease of installation, lower electrical costs, less heat transfer, ease of cleaning, versatility, expandability, and IMO healthier livestock. As for the pumps being an eyesore, in a 200+ gallon tank, it shouldn't even be a problem. Are you getting it custom-built? If so, you can always have some extra panes put in to completely hide the pumps, or arrange your aquascaping in such a way to hide them. Here is a picture of my 75g with 2 x 6100s. You'd almost over-look them if you didn't know they were there:
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Aaron "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" ~Ancient Chinese Proverb Current Tank Info: 75g "old school" Oceanic RR; ACII w/ AquaNotes; 2x250w IceCap MH E-ballasts: 14K AquaConnect SE / 10K ReefLux SE; 2xTUNZE 6100 w/ 7095 Multicontroller; 18g sump w/ EuroReef ES5-3; Poseidon T1 return |
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04/25/2006, 11:44 AM | #17 |
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Once again great thanks to all that replied. I am glad this thread is not turning ugly because any time you see the term Vs., It usually gets ugly. I do prefer the Tunze because of feed timer, night mode, flow adjustment, etc... However, I was striving for a real natural look. I am going to have the tank custom built with a few acrylic shelves built in where I can place some live rock instead of having that great wall of China look. Maybe I can place the Streams close to the shelves where they will be hidden.
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04/25/2006, 11:52 AM | #18 |
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I prefer using Tunze streams. The flow rate is ideal for SPS corals plus you don't have to worry about possible leaks associated with the closed loop system due to all the plumbing required. Also, if you want to upgrade later, I think it would be easier to sell an aquarium without 10 to 20 pre-drilled holes in it. If you go with Tunze, you may want to also consider adding a wavebox.
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04/25/2006, 07:50 PM | #19 |
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DouzeCordes
What exactly does the wavebox do?? Streams and Wavebox?? What are the extra benefits of the wavebox that streams don't provide?? |
04/25/2006, 08:31 PM | #20 |
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Check it out; here's a thread where you can find an example of a wavebox in action:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=830116
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Aaron "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" ~Ancient Chinese Proverb Current Tank Info: 75g "old school" Oceanic RR; ACII w/ AquaNotes; 2x250w IceCap MH E-ballasts: 14K AquaConnect SE / 10K ReefLux SE; 2xTUNZE 6100 w/ 7095 Multicontroller; 18g sump w/ EuroReef ES5-3; Poseidon T1 return |
04/25/2006, 08:46 PM | #21 |
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i prefer the 4 way if it is set up right it will far out preform arnything alse unles your going to put your t heads down as far as 1" from you sand bed you can easly run a 200g with a dart and have amazing flow remember it's the cycle of floe that matters not just a big storm of water in the tank
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04/25/2006, 08:53 PM | #22 |
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Reason you don't see the tunzes is because they cropped out the tunzes in that pic. They are pretty big but I get more of the, "COOL, you have a camera in your tank!" from my Seios. I'd prefer a CL if possible. It just looks better but whatever works for you is what you should do
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04/26/2006, 02:22 AM | #23 |
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A submerged 45W powerhead will heat the water the same as a 45W heater. Physics 101...
What is it that makes a Tunze so efficient? I've never looked at one up close, but why couldn't you use one in a closed loop? Are we sure they move 3175gph? I'm just a bit puzzeled on this efficency.... G1 |
04/26/2006, 06:16 AM | #24 |
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Efficiency is the measure of how well the electric motor converts the power that is consumed into useful work. For example, an electric heater converts 100% of the power delivered into heat. In motors, most of the energy is converted into usable energy (flow), only a portion is lost as heat. To compare efficiency, take the flow gained per watt used. Tunzes are very efficient.
A 45W powerhead will not heat the water the same as a 45W heater....
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Hobby Experience: 2 yrs Current Tanks: 180 gallon sps 3 x 250W ROIII pendants 4 x 54W T5 3 x phoenix 14K on icecap ballasts H&S A150-2001 skimmer 2 x Tunze 6200/multicontroller/wavebox |
04/26/2006, 06:31 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
It all boils down to the way you calculate the pump Hp P=(Q*H*SG)/(Eff*3960) P=horsepower Q=Flow in GPM H=head in feet Eff=efficenty on the pump 3960 is a correction term to make the units work The pump itself my not be that efficent, but the fact that is has little head makes it use little power. I'm sure the pumps were tested, atleast the prototypes.
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Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS |
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