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04/28/2006, 06:32 AM | #1 |
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HELP! Alk & Ca adjustments.
I have a toadstool leather and 1 acan that are not doing well. the leather has not opened in 3 days and the acan is deflated and beginning to recede. I decided to test para's which are as follows. I am no chemist so please help.(I have a small tank with no sump, fuge, only a cpr skimmer).
Ca=440 PO4=0-0.03 Alk(kh)=70 mg/L (hope I read it right,7 drops and it changed colors-used a Hagen test kit) Ph=8.1 to 8.3 Nitrate=10-20 ppm nitrite=0ammonia=0 I have some Kent Products such as liq calcium and probuffer. I dont add them-just stock it. should I use it?
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"I don't need a remote control, I rather watch my tank!" Current Tank Info: using Remora Pro HO skimmer ,maxi-jet 900 powerhead & 2-400 powerhead, 45 lbs tonga live rock and 40 lbs live sand |
04/28/2006, 08:21 AM | #2 |
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I have a 54 Gal. corner bow tank and I have been using ESW
B-Ionic 2 part Alk and Cal. I add about 22ml of each and my Alk and Cal are nice and stable. Just start by using the suggested starting point and adjust over time for your size tank. Willyreef |
04/28/2006, 08:23 AM | #3 |
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Actually, if your readings are accurate, they are fine.
Calcium: Natural Sea Water-380-420; Home Aquarium- up to 480. 440 is fine. Alkalinity: Most likely you have the wrong measurement. Alkalinity is the measurement of Carbonate. Their are two measurements used; meq/L and dKH. Most likely your test measures it in dKH. Acceptable ranges-7-11dKH. I prefer 9-11 dKH pH: This varies for many different reasons. If your Calcium and Alkalinity are balanced, it could be the presence or absence of CO2 (Carbon Dioxide). A heavy bioload of CO2 producing animals (IE over stocked with fish or large fish) will cause the reading to be lower. But pH readings aren't an accurate way of telling how ionically balanced your aquarium is when you test it by itself. This is why you test Alk/Ca. So, as long as you're ionically balanced and the pH isn't too far off (8.0-8.4) then you should be fine. Nitrates in that range shouldn't effect anything but possibly Acropora species. Acanthastrea and Sarcophyton should actually be thriving. I do believe that it's something besides tank chemistry that is your problem. What lighting do you have and how long has it been since you changed your bulbs?
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
04/28/2006, 09:41 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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"I don't need a remote control, I rather watch my tank!" Current Tank Info: using Remora Pro HO skimmer ,maxi-jet 900 powerhead & 2-400 powerhead, 45 lbs tonga live rock and 40 lbs live sand |
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04/28/2006, 09:48 AM | #5 |
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The actinics really don't do much for your corals except add a little extra light pretty light. It does emit a needed light, but it's not a desperate need. There are many people that run tanks with absolutely no actinics for years.
That will most likely be your problem right there. You are actually burning your corals. The new light is burning at a drastically more intense light. If you either raise your light/canopy up about 4-6" it will help reduce the intensity. If you can't raise it, you can take some window screening from your local hardware store (or even walmart). Take a few sheets to cover over your tank and slowly remove the sheets one by one over the course of a few weeks to a month so it gives the MH time to burn in and gives the corals time to adjust to the new, bright, intense lighting.
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
04/28/2006, 09:54 AM | #6 |
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"I'm no chemist!" Yes you are, or you will be.
We start off doing this hobby to have a beautiful piece of nature in our houses to share with family and friends and all of a sudden we become slaves to the craft. We become researchers when we go on-line and check out what raw materials we need, we become architects when we construct the reef skeleton, we become biologists when we chose our live stock, corals and invertabrates and we become chemists for the rest of the time we do this hobby checking and maintaining water parameters and dealing with unforseen changes. This hobby is really a labor but as any true reefer knows (Stop laughing, I know that sounds like a line from the 70's!) it's a labor of love. In the time it took me to write this my water temp went up two degrees, two corals closed a little my green leather was stung by a purple mushroom and my wife nagged me three times for spending too much time on the internet talking to other dead head reefers. |
04/28/2006, 10:09 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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"I don't need a remote control, I rather watch my tank!" Current Tank Info: using Remora Pro HO skimmer ,maxi-jet 900 powerhead & 2-400 powerhead, 45 lbs tonga live rock and 40 lbs live sand |
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04/28/2006, 10:10 AM | #8 |
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Oh yes, they will come back just fine (or should). You might want to reduce your photoperiod as well. It will take longer for your MH to burn in, but at least they corals aren't going to get too much light.
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
04/28/2006, 10:12 AM | #9 | |
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A chemist? hahaha-I just attempt to follow the directions and write down the results. I post here for someone else to decipher for me!
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"I don't need a remote control, I rather watch my tank!" Current Tank Info: using Remora Pro HO skimmer ,maxi-jet 900 powerhead & 2-400 powerhead, 45 lbs tonga live rock and 40 lbs live sand |
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