Upgrading lighting to Mh and have a few ?

ho bag · 05/02/2006, 10:35 AM

I currently have a 130w PC on my 21g tank, i wanna upgrade to a 33g tank with 15g sump. I also plan on upgrading my lighting to Mh instead of my 130w PC.

I dont really wanna have to deal with suplimenting my Mh with pc or no/vho. BUT if you want the same colour i have to run 14k bulbs. From my under standing this reduces coral groth. Can i just run a more powerful bulb to make up for it?

I was thinking that if i went to 14k i woudl run 250w Mh OR 175w at 6700 or 10k?

Does this sound like a viable option?

I recently saw a 6700k 250w Mh and i dont mind the colour too much so i may just go that way with it. But 250w Mh on a 33g tank might be a little too much.

Randall_James · 05/02/2006, 10:47 AM

What is going to be in the tank
What are the dimensions on the tank

smcdonn · 05/02/2006, 10:53 AM

250Watts with the 15 gallon sump might be ok. I'm getting ready to do dual 250W 14K's with no supplement lighting on my 75 gallon with a 30 gallon sump. I feel the 10K's would just heat it up too much. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers

XeniaMania · 05/02/2006, 10:59 AM

Rule of thumb with halide lighting is that they'll cover 2'x2' area. What wattage you go with should be determined by How deep your tank is with 175W being effective to 12"-16" depth. Your idea of going with a higher wattage to provide more of the spectrum that would otherwise be lacking is a good workaround, but it's not like they're not going to grow at all. You'd still be able to see a difference after 1 month granted your water parameters are optimal.

Randall_James · 05/02/2006, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by smcdonn
250Watts with the 15 gallon sump might be ok. I'm getting ready to do dual 250W 14K's with no supplement lighting on my 75 gallon with a 30 gallon sump. I feel the 10K's would just heat it up too much. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers

250W 10K lights put more heat in water than 250W 14K lights?

ho bag · 05/02/2006, 11:56 AM

The tank is 36in long and about 18in deep. After sand is in i assume 15-6in deep. I nkow its about 2ft squared for coverage but i can always place mye lower light corals on the outside edge of the tank and put my high light stuff in the middle.

Randall_James · 05/02/2006, 12:06 PM

36" tank is a bit of a quandry IMO to light.

If there is a center brace (my 36 has one) then a single light is a problem due to obstruction
If there is no center brace you have the 24X24 footprint issue to deal with. (single 250W HQI perhaps?)

If cost was not an issue, I would probably go with a 2X150 HQI and use 14K bulbs or maybe even a 10K/14K split. I use 10/14 on my 75 and like the effect. It also allows me to move corals a bit more liberally as I have the "Fade" from bright to not so bright.

I do like a bit more blue than the white light to set off colors myself

ho bag · 05/02/2006, 12:21 PM

No center brace to deal with, Im trying to stay single ended as well. That way no UV issues to deal with.

XeniaMania · 05/02/2006, 01:58 PM

I think you're good w/ the idea of putting your lower light corals to the side. Dual halides are not required on a 3ft long setup. You may want to give the Iwasaki 15000K a shot, PAR that's similar to 250W bulbs. Here are some comparison shots for ya.
20000K

15000K

Randall_James · 05/02/2006, 02:39 PM

I am not sure the UV should be an issue to you. If you use a pendant style then the UV is taken care of by the lens on the bottom of the fixture (really a better idea than an exposed SE Mogul type bulb IMO)
If it is in a canopy, then a SE Mogul is easier.

I would go with a 250W Blueline 10K+ myself (they have a touch of blue to make the colors "Pop". That would leave the ends open for your low light stuff and plenty under the bulb for strong lighting.

Lighting temperature really is just a mater of personal preference when it comes to appearance at least. I prefer the slightly blue look of the higher temp bulbs as they enhance the colors of the corals

smcdonn · 05/02/2006, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Randall_James
250W 10K lights put more heat in water than 250W 14K lights?

Alright I'm new but from everyone I have talked to, the 10K's are more intense, resulting in a little more heat. Help me out here, don't just quote me then end your statement with a question mark. Do the 14K's heat a tank just as much as a 10K bulb? If thats the case I may reconsider my lighting choice

Randall_James · 05/02/2006, 04:56 PM

I doubt that there would be enough difference to base a choice on lighting.

Now 250W of 10K and 250W of infrared might make a difference but between 10 and 14 K I doubt it would be of any consequence. I would pick your lights based on what your eyes tell you .

05/02/2006, 10:35 AM	#1
ho bag Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 52	Upgrading lighting to Mh and have a few ? I currently have a 130w PC on my 21g tank, i wanna upgrade to a 33g tank with 15g sump. I also plan on upgrading my lighting to Mh instead of my 130w PC. I dont really wanna have to deal with suplimenting my Mh with pc or no/vho. BUT if you want the same colour i have to run 14k bulbs. From my under standing this reduces coral groth. Can i just run a more powerful bulb to make up for it? I was thinking that if i went to 14k i woudl run 250w Mh OR 175w at 6700 or 10k? Does this sound like a viable option? I recently saw a 6700k 250w Mh and i dont mind the colour too much so i may just go that way with it. But 250w Mh on a 33g tank might be a little too much.

05/02/2006, 10:47 AM	#2
Randall_James Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 6,727	What is going to be in the tank What are the dimensions on the tank __________________ "It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear"

05/02/2006, 12:06 PM	#7
Randall_James Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 6,727	36" tank is a bit of a quandry IMO to light. If there is a center brace (my 36 has one) then a single light is a problem due to obstruction If there is no center brace you have the 24X24 footprint issue to deal with. (single 250W HQI perhaps?) If cost was not an issue, I would probably go with a 2X150 HQI and use 14K bulbs or maybe even a 10K/14K split. I use 10/14 on my 75 and like the effect. It also allows me to move corals a bit more liberally as I have the "Fade" from bright to not so bright. I do like a bit more blue than the white light to set off colors myself __________________ "It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear"

05/02/2006, 02:39 PM	#10
Randall_James Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 6,727	I am not sure the UV should be an issue to you. If you use a pendant style then the UV is taken care of by the lens on the bottom of the fixture (really a better idea than an exposed SE Mogul type bulb IMO) If it is in a canopy, then a SE Mogul is easier. I would go with a 250W Blueline 10K+ myself (they have a touch of blue to make the colors "Pop". That would leave the ends open for your low light stuff and plenty under the bulb for strong lighting. Lighting temperature really is just a mater of personal preference when it comes to appearance at least. I prefer the slightly blue look of the higher temp bulbs as they enhance the colors of the corals __________________ "It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear"

05/02/2006, 04:56 PM	#12
Randall_James Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 6,727	I doubt that there would be enough difference to base a choice on lighting. Now 250W of 10K and 250W of infrared might make a difference but between 10 and 14 K I doubt it would be of any consequence. I would pick your lights based on what your eyes tell you . __________________ "It's a dog eat dog world and I feel like I am wearing milkbone underwear"

05/02/2006, 10:53 AM	#3
smcdonn Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Fayetteville, AR Posts: 925	250Watts with the 15 gallon sump might be ok. I'm getting ready to do dual 250W 14K's with no supplement lighting on my 75 gallon with a 30 gallon sump. I feel the 10K's would just heat it up too much. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers

05/02/2006, 10:59 AM	#4
XeniaMania Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Orange, CA Posts: 1,627	Rule of thumb with halide lighting is that they'll cover 2'x2' area. What wattage you go with should be determined by How deep your tank is with 175W being effective to 12"-16" depth. Your idea of going with a higher wattage to provide more of the spectrum that would otherwise be lacking is a good workaround, but it's not like they're not going to grow at all. You'd still be able to see a difference after 1 month granted your water parameters are optimal.

05/02/2006, 11:56 AM	#6
ho bag Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 52	The tank is 36in long and about 18in deep. After sand is in i assume 15-6in deep. I nkow its about 2ft squared for coverage but i can always place mye lower light corals on the outside edge of the tank and put my high light stuff in the middle.

05/02/2006, 12:21 PM	#8
ho bag Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 52	No center brace to deal with, Im trying to stay single ended as well. That way no UV issues to deal with.

05/02/2006, 01:58 PM	#9
XeniaMania Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Orange, CA Posts: 1,627	I think you're good w/ the idea of putting your lower light corals to the side. Dual halides are not required on a 3ft long setup. You may want to give the Iwasaki 15000K a shot, PAR that's similar to 250W bulbs. Here are some comparison shots for ya. 20000K 15000K