ozone equipment question/help

[Brent Thomann]

I currently was handed down a RedSea AquaZone 200 ozonizer as seen here-
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...tid=4570&rel=1

I would like to add it to my system (replacing my uv sterilizer I presume) but not sure what exactly else I'll need to get-r going.

I understand I'll also need some type of controller but not sure which is most recommended/convenient?

everyones knowledge is greatly appreciated!

[Ti]

u need an air pump and air dryer and ozone tubing

[Brent Thomann]

Originally posted by Ti
u need an air pump and air dryer and ozone tubing

can you be a littler more specific please? do I not need a controller/prob then?

I guess I'm hoping to find someone that can help me or walk me through getting this thing going. I'll definitely listed to what you have to say.

[HotHotHot]

Yes, you should get an ORP controller. A Milwaukee would be good, or an Aquacontroller (more expensive). Choose a setpoint around 400mv +/-

Search Dr Foster or Marine depot for an air drier. The air pump supplies air to the ozonizer.

hookup is :
air pump --> air drier --> ozone --> skimmer or reactor

HTH
Ed

[Billybeau1]

Also why replace your UV. I use both with no problems.

[Zoom]

Originally posted by Billybeau1
Also why replace your UV. I use both with no problems.

I always have problem with the UV adding heat to the tank water.

[Brent Thomann]

OK, I finally received everything needed.

Had a question, while I was ordering the Milwaukee controller the guy on the phone said that it is not necessary to run carbon after the skimmer. He said that they don't in his shop (saltycritter.com).

Can anyone comment on this. Think I can get by without as well?

Not that it makes any difference, I actually run my UV Sterilizer after my skimmer which I'm probably going to continue doing from what I read, only an extra 18 watts too.

Thanks,
Brent

[RichConley]

Originally posted by HotHotHot
Yes, you should get an ORP controller. A Milwaukee would be good, or an Aquacontroller (more expensive). Choose a setpoint around 400mv +/-

You'll fry everything in your tank if you do that.

Hook the controller up, wait a week. Figure out wthat the tank's ORP is now. Set the controller to 30 higher. Leave it a day or 2. Keep tacking on 20 or 30 points untill you get up to 375-400. If you just jack you're ORP from 275 to 400, you'll kill most of your corals.

[RichConley]

Originally posted by Zoom
I always have problem with the UV adding heat to the tank water.

how big of a UV unit were you using? An 18w UV will add less heat than a maxijet 1200.

[Brent Thomann]

Originally posted by RichConley
You'll fry everything in your tank if you do that.

Hook the controller up, wait a week. Figure out wthat the tank's ORP is now. Set the controller to 30 higher. Leave it a day or 2. Keep tacking on 20 or 30 points untill you get up to 375-400. If you just jack you're ORP from 275 to 400, you'll kill most of your corals.

That sounds like a plan.

The instructions that came with the controller are crap. Would it be safe to fully submerge the probe? (Milwaukee controller)

and

how do I integrate the setup into my asm g4 skimmer? I'll be using a small air pump.

I understand-
air pump --> air drier --> ozone --> skimmer

can some one please give me some details on-
ozone --> skimmer

Oh, I have some air line check valves, t's and ozone safe tubing.

[Billybeau1]

I dont run carbon on the skimmer output. Only on top of the collecton cup to keep the smell out of the room. I dont smell any ozone around my sump. Ozone only lasts a few seconds once it hits the water so by the time it makes it through your sump and back to the tank, its pretty much gone.

[Zoom]

Originally posted by RichConley
how big of a UV unit were you using? An 18w UV will add less heat than a maxijet 1200.

3F on a 235 gallon tank. UV units are very good adding heat to the water they are long and the bulb is right next to the water. I no longer use my still have it i even try to use it in 90 Gallon quarantine tank but the tank got to hot about 84F from 78F. it is a 40 W unit.

[thrlride]

a 1/4" T fitting on the venturi tube will hook to the skimmer. I have a 1/4" fitting to the skimmer collection cup as well to suck in any excess ozone. The skimmer output goes to a filtersock with carbon in it.

I don't use an air drier nor an air pump.

[Billybeau1]

I'm not familiar with your type skimmer but mine has an air line attached to it that sucks in air to create bubbles. I just hooked my ozone output up to that line and let er rip. I did have to readjust the skimmer though as forcing air through that tube changed the height of the skimmer bubbles. Takes a little tweaking.

[thrlride]

Love that sweetlips in your avatar Billybeau1!

The ASM works the same way. It has a venturi tube that the ozone output can be attached to.

[Brent Thomann]

Originally posted by Billybeau1
readjust the skimmer though as forcing air through that tube changed the height of the skimmer bubbles. Takes a little tweaking.

the orp controller turns on and off as needed. so will that mean I'll need to re-adjust my skimmer all day long?

[Zoom]

I test the outflow of my skimmer and was not any residue of ozone. Feeding about 100MG of ozone in to my 902 skimmer to experiment the only thing i had a problem with was the smell in the surrounding area of the skimmer I take care that with two carbon bugs . After running my new ozone unit for a month I RTN one coral for going to fast with the ozone even so I take my time slowly get my ORP up to 350- 400 in a period of one month the extra clarity in the water give me only one problem.
The ozone dosing now is 25MG and the ORP stays about 340- to 360.
MY polyp extension of my SPS is unbelievable .

[dkh0331]

Originally posted by humpn247
the orp controller turns on and off as needed. so will that mean I'll need to re-adjust my skimmer all day long?

No, that is why you should have a "T" in the line. Right now you should have an airline that comes out of your skimmer pump. Put the "T" on that and connect you line from your Red Sea unit to the "T". When the ozone unit is on, it will force the ozone into the skimmer. When your controller is of, your skimmer will bring in air from the open end of the "T"

HTH

David

[RichConley]

Originally posted by humpn247
the orp controller turns on and off as needed. so will that mean I'll need to re-adjust my skimmer all day long?

The way I have mine hooked up, the ozone just gets dumped into a mixing chamber that the skimmer sucks air in from. So the skimmer gets the same amount of air all the time, its just composition thats different.




As to UV heat, a watt is a watt is a watt. It doesnt matter if its a pump, or a UV. if its submersed, its the same heat.

[RichConley]

Originally posted by humpn247
That sounds like a plan.

The instructions that came with the controller are crap. Would it be safe to fully submerge the probe? (Milwaukee controller)

and

how do I integrate the setup into my asm g4 skimmer? I'll be using a small air pump.

I understand-
air pump --> air drier --> ozone --> skimmer

can some one please give me some details on-
ozone --> skimmer

Oh, I have some air line check valves, t's and ozone safe tubing.

I hope you can fully submerge the milwaukee probes.... (eek if not...i'll need a new one)

I dont like the direct line to the skimmer set up. I dont like how it restricts airflow. I have a 3" long piece of 1 inch PVC with a cap on each end. Theres a hole drilled into each cap, and one in the side. At 1 end, airline is inserted, and runs to the skimmer venturi. In the side hole, airline is inserted, and runs to the ozone/airpump. The 3rd hole is left open. The skimmer sucks more air than the airpump gives, so either way, the skimmer gets the same amount of air, and no ozone escapes.

[Zoom]

As to UV heat, a watt is a watt is a watt. It doesnt matter if its a pump, or a UV. if its submersed, its the same heat.

Well I disagreed with you on that the UV add more heat to the water as a equal size pump on the same watts.
You think a 50W pump will add the same amount of heat to the water as a 50W heater .

I think the UV is a large heater to me.

[dkh0331]

Originally posted by RichConley
I hope you can fully submerge the milwaukee probes.... (eek if not...i'll need a new one)

I dont like the direct line to the skimmer set up. I dont like how it restricts airflow. I have a 3" long piece of 1 inch PVC with a cap on each end. Theres a hole drilled into each cap, and one in the side. At 1 end, airline is inserted, and runs to the skimmer venturi. In the side hole, airline is inserted, and runs to the ozone/airpump. The 3rd hole is left open. The skimmer sucks more air than the airpump gives, so either way, the skimmer gets the same amount of air, and no ozone escapes.

Interesting - basically a PVC - T

[RichConley]

Originally posted by Zoom
Well I disagreed with you on that the UV add alt more heat to the water as a equal size pump on the same watts.

No it wont. Its physics here, conservation of energy. All the electricity either one uses is converted to heat(via friction). If not, that pump would accelerate the water to the speed of light and beyond.

[RichConley]

Originally posted by dkh0331
Interesting - basically a PVC - T

Basically, yeah, although for me it was much less restrictive. I run a smaller skimmer than you guys, and its not a recirc, so restricting air makes it pump more water, and the skimmer overflows.

[Brent Thomann]

Originally posted by dkh0331
No, that is why you should have a "T" in the line. Right now you should have an airline that comes out of your skimmer pump. Put the "T" on that and connect you line from your Red Sea unit to the "T". When the ozone unit is on, it will force the ozone into the skimmer. When your controller is of, your skimmer will bring in air from the open end of the "T"

HTH

David

I actually have a venturi.

so would I put a "T" in the venturi line? where about. I should probably put a check valve in the open end of the venturi so the ozone doesn't go the wrong direction right?