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05/28/2006, 08:38 AM | #1 |
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Location: Parkland, Florida
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48 " Current Orbit PC System Problems
I have a 48 inch Current PC System. It has 2 white and 2 Actinic bulbs. It keeps blowing bulbs after a month or 2. This is my second unit. 65watt
Is anyone else having these problems? What should I change to that is reasonable? I have no hard or stoney corals. Just Zoos, Polyps, mushrooms and leathers. I use no lid on my tank. Last edited by fishnugget; 05/28/2006 at 09:04 AM. |
05/28/2006, 09:29 AM | #2 |
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Location: Shawnee, Kansas
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Do you get a lot of water on the lights from splashing or anything?
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05/28/2006, 10:05 AM | #3 |
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no
no
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05/28/2006, 08:38 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
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How does it blow a bulb? Does the bulb no longer fire or does the bulb literally break?
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05/28/2006, 08:43 PM | #5 |
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Location: Maumee, OH
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What about false contacts at the pins sockets. Check that out.
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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind. Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium |
05/29/2006, 04:08 AM | #6 |
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Location: Parkland, Florida
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Bulb
No longer works. What is false contact at pin socket?
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05/29/2006, 09:59 AM | #7 |
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Location: Maumee, OH
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The bulbs connect to the ballast by inserting them in clip like sockets which have small metal contacts inside, they can get dirty or bent slightly so they do not make good electrical contact with the bulb, that create overheating that damages the bulb and/or the ballast.
__________________
Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind. Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium |
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