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#1 |
Premium Member
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Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 33
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2 or 4 t5s
As the subject states, I'm trying to decide between an icecap 48" 2 bulb retro or a 4 bulb retro. The tank is only 15 or 16" deep, so I am a bit concerned that a 4 bulb system may be too much. I haven't completely made up my mind as to what I'm going to keep, but most of the corals I like are listed as having low or moderate light requirements. On the other hand, I would really like to get a clam someday. So what is the better choice, 2 or 4 T5s?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Unknown
Posts: 814
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more light is always better unless you have a 400w halide over a nano. it all depends on what YOU want. a clam would prolly require more light than the two bulb fixture can offer. teklite also makes great retros.
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Travis Current Tank Info: 20H |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: milwaukee wisconsin
Posts: 4,125
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well, on a tank that shallow, i would not use the icecap retrofit. that will overdrive the bulbs, and it isnt necessary on that shallow of a tank.
get 4 normally driven 54w t5ho, with good reflectors and you will be fine. what is the tank's other dimension? 48x 15-16x? i run 3x39w of t5ho on my similarly shallow 35g, and it is very bright. bright enough for clams and sps. and even montiporas grow well on the substrate.
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people write stupid things in this space Current Tank Info: 200g DIY wood reef, 2x 250w SE 10k MH 2x80 t5ho, 75g sump, Geo Ca RX, ASD 6" recirc skimmer |
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#4 |
Premium Member
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Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 33
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Thanks for the replies. Horkn, the tank is actually a hexagon; 48" in the back tapering up to 30" in the front. At its widest point, it is about 15" front to back. It is sort of the forerunner to the bowfront tank. With this odd shape, I was thinking I may need to get smaller bulbs towards the front. Can you run different sized bulbs on a T5 ballast, or are they size specific?
Thanks again |
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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: milwaukee wisconsin
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I see.
but yes you can use a 2x54w ballast to run a 24w (24") and a 39w (3') t5 if you need or any other combo as long as you dont go over the total watts available on the ballast.
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people write stupid things in this space Current Tank Info: 200g DIY wood reef, 2x 250w SE 10k MH 2x80 t5ho, 75g sump, Geo Ca RX, ASD 6" recirc skimmer |
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#6 |
Premium Member
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Location: Houston, TX
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Well, I've given it some thought, and it seems that 4 normally driven T5s is the way to go. Thanks again to both of you for the replies.
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: milwaukee wisconsin
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no problem
ballastwise.com has some really inexpensive spec t5ho ballasts if you want to give that a shot. keep us posted how it works out for you ![]()
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people write stupid things in this space Current Tank Info: 200g DIY wood reef, 2x 250w SE 10k MH 2x80 t5ho, 75g sump, Geo Ca RX, ASD 6" recirc skimmer |
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#8 | |
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Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
I would go with 4x54w normally driven...any more than that is too much IMO. I am curbing my suggested amount of bulbs these days. IMO you only need 4 bulbs up to 90g and 6 bulbs for a 120g. Any more than that is just overkill and will cause coral lightening. That is what I am seeing a lot of these days. My tank included.
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-Horace Pinker Current Tank Info: New 180g Mixed SPS Build in progress |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,602
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would you put 4 icecap retros or 4 sunlight retros on a 55gal that is 18-19inch deep. Im not sure what i want to keep but only want to buy lighting once and dont want to have way to much and burn anything under it. Sunlight doesnt overdrive the bulbs correct?
ps. Nice name Kurt |
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#10 |
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Location: Atlanta
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4 normal driven is more than enough on a 55g for anything you would want and too much for some stuff...SLS units do not overdrive...only Icecap do and I would not advise you overdrive....
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-Horace Pinker Current Tank Info: New 180g Mixed SPS Build in progress |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Wentzville, MO
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I have a 4 light t5 fixture, but only run 2 bulbs plus the moonlights. My tank is 24 inches deep and even with the softies on the bottom it's a LOT of light. They are having some trouble adjusting...they don't open up as much as they did with the pc's. You can always get the 4 light fixture and just run 2 of them if they are on a seperate switch.
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I'm consistently torn between wanting to know more about your life and just waiting to see it on "Cops." Current Tank Info: 90 gallons o' salty goodness |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,602
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well if i get the icecap retro all 4 are on one ballast but if i get the sunlight retro theres 2 a ballast. i was thinking of getting that anyways cause i want to have antics timed diffrent then my daylight bulbs for a gradual awaking.
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: milwaukee wisconsin
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kurt, seriously, 4x54 is a ton of light without overdriving the bulbs.
and the other kurt (horace) i even think i may have gone too far on my 35g with 3x39 of t5ho. but maybe when i swap bulbs and run a aquablue in place of the ge bulb, i will be better off. guys, more light isnt always better...
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people write stupid things in this space Current Tank Info: 200g DIY wood reef, 2x 250w SE 10k MH 2x80 t5ho, 75g sump, Geo Ca RX, ASD 6" recirc skimmer |
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#14 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 959
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Quote:
I hate to think that after I get this all together everything except SPS I put in the tank will melt because there is too much light. I have the bulbs AB (2), A\B+ (2) 5" off what will be the waterline, which will be about 20" off the bottom. Hork - what will your 3 bulb combo be? Should I swap out an A\B+ for pure Actinic to lower the PAR but keep the color? jp |
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: milwaukee wisconsin
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2 ati blues (not blue+, they just say blue, whether that is exactly the same as the blue+ or actinic plus, i dunno) and 1 ge 6500k day in the middle. thats what i run, now, and have for the last 18 months, but i am thinking super actinic, / aquablue/ actinic+ for my next bulbs...
its a ton of light really, and my lps (most of them anyway) have not cared for the light. BigJ, yeah, putting the actinic in there will get the color, and not bake the coral any worse. that is the bonus of having an extra bulb, you can put an actinic in there to get the color you want
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people write stupid things in this space Current Tank Info: 200g DIY wood reef, 2x 250w SE 10k MH 2x80 t5ho, 75g sump, Geo Ca RX, ASD 6" recirc skimmer |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 411
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I currently have a 4 48" T5's running over my AGA 75g FOWLR.
Soon to be upgrading to a reef setup. At first i think i'm only to run softies and LPS, maybe ill run SPS later but that's maybe a couple years down the road. I was planning on 2 ATI Blue (20k), 1 6.5k GE, and 1 10k. Given your guys experience w/ t5's and corals do you think this is alright? Should i maybe swap a 20k out for a actinic or find higher intense lighting corals. thanks for help. |
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#17 |
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Location: Atlanta
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If I had only 4 bulbs, I would probably do:
Super Actinic AB AB Blue+ or for bit bluer look SA B+ AB or GE B+
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-Horace Pinker Current Tank Info: New 180g Mixed SPS Build in progress |
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: milwaukee wisconsin
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shouse, that would work.
until i personally see the new UVL sa bulbs, i will go with the geiseman/ ge mix that everyone knows
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people write stupid things in this space Current Tank Info: 200g DIY wood reef, 2x 250w SE 10k MH 2x80 t5ho, 75g sump, Geo Ca RX, ASD 6" recirc skimmer |
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 480
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For those with 75gal tanks lit by T5's, with endcaps and wiring, how much longer is your lighting setup than your tank if you're running 48" bulbs. I'm trying to decide if I should just get 46.5" VHOs or if 48" T5s will fit reasonably. I was also thinking of just getting 36" T5s and staggering them. Do you think the 36" bulbs on a IC ballast with IC reflectors would be enough for just about all light demanding inverts in a 75gal?
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 411
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48" t5's fit just fine on a standard 75g, no reason to do 36".
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#21 |
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Location: Atlanta
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T5s are not really 48" they are 46.5"
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-Horace Pinker Current Tank Info: New 180g Mixed SPS Build in progress |
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#22 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 480
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Sweet deal. I was wondering if the bulbs were a true 48" if the reflectors were only 47" long.
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#23 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 959
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Quote:
Maybe the thing to try is using one AB\A+ combo as the dusk\dawn photperiod, and then all four in the mid-day hours only. The only thing that sucks about that is not being able to go A+ only to show off corals. jp |
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#24 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: dfw
Posts: 276
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this is what I was looking at for my 60G with dimensions
48x24x13 http://www.aquauniverse.com/componen...hop/Itemid,31/ Would try for the 48" to use less bulbs but my canopy has a "door" cutout on the top of it that allows it to flip up and down, giving me access to the tank, but it is only 40" long. I don't feel like taking off the canopy everytime I wanna mess with it ya know. |
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#25 |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,703
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I would go with the Tek T5 4 bulb fixture with the best individual reflectors you can get. You dont need to overdrive the bulbs on this shallow tank. Burn the bulbs quicker, more heat, more money for the icecaps etc... etc.... But the aformentioned is good for what you have.
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