Preparing for take off!

Medic415 · 06/13/2006, 05:45 AM

Finally after 2.5yrs, I have gotten permission to start a saltwater tank. This past Saturday I stopped at the closest LFS that deals with saltwater mainly. I was there about 8 months ago also. www.millersreef.com, but anyway since I'm a pretty busy person...working 2 jobs...the owner is going to build me a system. I chose a 46 gallon bowfront tank with stand...limited space at home. He is going to incoporate a 10 gallon sump/fuge into the system. I will be getting all the other goodies from him too rock, sand, other filtration-rock in the sump,...he was pro bioballs, but asked him not to due all the reading I have been doing, he reccomended VHO light for my budget. He didn't believe in a protien skimmer, states he has not problems with frequent water changes...but I think I will purchase a HOB after we get it set up.

As soon as I get hings going I will start taking pictures....with any luck I will have water circulating by Friday...I hope anyway.

I will keep all posted.

Mike.

techreef · 06/13/2006, 07:06 AM

Good luck Medic! 2.5 years is a LONG time to wait. I'm chomping at the bit after 10 months.

Did you check out T5 lighting during your background reading? It's what I ended up going with for my 90G. Lighting is definitely a daunting topic to try and tackle, but from my reading it seems that as T5 lighting becomes more mainstream, more and more people are finding it the most versatile, and very energy efficient, method of reef tank lighting. (Assuming that you are using quality individual reflectors like IC reflectors) My tank doesn't have water in it yet (waiting for my plumbing supplies delivery from Savko) but I anticipate being able to keep just about any type of coral or clam that I choose with my 6 bulb T5 setup.

Looking forward to your setup pics. Enjoy your tank!

crumbletop · 06/13/2006, 07:31 AM

If you want inexpensive and proven lighting, VHO is hard to beat. You might also look into a 4x65W PC setup for that size of tank. If you ever did decide to upgrade your lighting, you can always use the VHOs/PCs for actinics + Halides or T5s for the more powerful penetration. I think your plan sounds fine, except I'd invest in a skimmer earlier rather than later.

Jack

ricks · 06/13/2006, 08:55 AM

Get yourself a large protein skimmer.. Even with water changes, will be the best money you can spend.... Working 2 jobs doesn't leave alot of time. This hobby can require alot of time to be sucessful.

Medic415 · 06/25/2006, 01:42 PM

Just got back from the LFS, think I'm going to need another job...just got his estimate on the build. Altered the specs.-46gal. Bow, stand, 20gal. sump/fuge with pump, don't remember the name or gpm, sand, 40-50lbs. premium Fiji rock, went with PC lighting over the VHO...Current Dual Satellite 192watts...10000k/6700 and 460/420 Actinic with moonlights. He is going to drill and place fitting in the tank and sump along with the plex in for the fuge. He is going to draw me a diagram and list the PVC that I will need to connect the tank and sump. Also getting the water from there...he assured me his RO/DI system is well maintained. Gonna mix the water myself, gonna go with Reef Crystals or Instant Ocean...any suggestions or opinion are well come.

You will get pictures when I get them, probably another 2 weeks till I get things together.

Be Safe.

Mike.

TekCat · 06/25/2006, 02:36 PM

to save some money tips:
get 25lbs of LR from LFS. Another 25lbs you could get as dry (base rock) from online retailers. this rock is a "used t o be" live rock. With presense of real LR that you'd gt from LFS it will become real LR in no time, however it may take a couple of months for coralline algea to grow on them.

As far as sand goes, get "dead" sand, not live "bagged". again, LR will seed an dead sand. Just don't get crushed coral, you'll be fighting algae after a while with crushed coral.

Medic415 · 06/25/2006, 06:07 PM

Is this a decent deal?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...R25&lpage=none

mfisher2112 · 06/25/2006, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Medic415
Is this a decent deal?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...R25&lpage=none

Not sure, but that looks like a 3 or 4 stage designed for drinking water.

Most everything I have read on the forums so far has recomended 5 stage with DI for reef water.

(Of course, I could be wrong, I am a newbie here too!)

I have been looking at this:

http://www.melevsreef.com/ro_di.html

And starting to check into this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

crumbletop · 06/25/2006, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Medic415
Is this a decent deal?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...R25&lpage=none

I'd get an RO/DI that is designed for reefs. You can get one for essentially the same price as the one you link to. I have a 75 gpd Typhoon unit from http://www.airwaterice.com/ . Get the 75 gpd instead of the 100 gpd because the RO membrane filters better with the 75 gpd. RO only systems will not get all the phosphate, etc that may be in your water -- that is what the DI section is for. I recommend you get the Typhoon III.

Jack

crumbletop · 06/25/2006, 06:41 PM

To explain a little more about RO/DI, the workhorse of the system is the RO membrane. The Dow Filmtec membrane is recommended by the experts here on RC because it filters out 98% of the "gunk", passing less through to the DI resin. The DI resin is the most commonly replaced part, so a good RO membrane will save you maintenance cost over the long haul because you will be replacing the DI less often. The 100 gpd membrane only gets 90%, and other membranes on ebay and elsewhere are not optimized for normal household water pressure. Good units, like the one at airwaterice or at melevsreef, use the Dow Filmtec membrane, and also use vertical full sized refillable DI cartridges that are more efficient than the small, horizontal DI chambers.

Jack

Medic415 · 06/25/2006, 06:59 PM

Thanks all for the input on this RO/DI question, cleared some things up for me.

Mike.

mfisher2112 · 06/25/2006, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Medic415
Thanks all for the input on this RO/DI question, cleared some things up for me.

Mike.

You and me both! Thanks!

Medic415 · 07/12/2006, 08:49 PM

Here are some pictures of my tank and sump/refugium. Wanted a 20gal. sump, but it wouldn't sit in the stand, so settled for a 10gal. Just picked it today. I'm going to finish plumbing in the over flow and return myself. Probably won't be setting it up for several more weeks though. I decided to replace my carpet before I set the tank up. I'll post more in few weeks when I get a little further on my adventure.

crumbletop · 07/13/2006, 06:15 AM

Lookin' good

Medic415 · 07/13/2006, 06:17 AM

What should I plumb the return with 1/2 or 3/4"? The overflow is 1".

crumbletop · 07/13/2006, 06:27 AM

My AGA has a 3/4" bulkhead so my plumbing is 3/4" to the display. My pump is 1/2" output (eheim 1250) so my plumbing is 1/2" to the bulkhead. I think I would recommend you plumb your return for 3/4" as you can always reduce at the pump and 3/4" will give you less resistance for the pump to work against.

Jack

Medic415 · 07/13/2006, 06:39 AM

I don't have a bulkhead forthe return, was just going to plumb over the top. The pump I have is a Mag Drive 500, looks to have a 1/2" discharge. I was leaning on 3/4". Thanks.

Mike.

crumbletop · 07/13/2006, 07:00 AM

Yeah, over the top should be fine, and I agree with 3/4".

Medic415 · 07/16/2006, 06:32 PM

Plumbed the tank and sump today. Filled checking for leaks. 1" over flow, 3/4" return to spray bar with 1/8" holes drilled at 1 1/2" apart. I have a MD5 pump in the sump. Can't wait now til we get our floor done over, so I can really start moving here. I know it will be several weeks yet, but I am really getting anxious.

[IMG] http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...icture_018.jpg [/IMG]

crumbletop · 07/16/2006, 07:05 PM

Nice job!

What's all that pipe on the bottom of the display tank?

Jack

Medic415 · 07/16/2006, 07:13 PM

Spraybar to create flow behing the rock, then I'm going to use a couple powerheads for added circulation.

crumbletop · 07/16/2006, 07:24 PM

Cool. I assume it will sit above the level of the sand.

Medic415 · 07/16/2006, 07:33 PM

More or less it will be, drilled the holes toward the top of the pvc. I was winging it a little bit. got extra pipe if it doesn't work out.

crumbletop · 07/16/2006, 07:51 PM

One other thought. You might not want the spaybar ends to go all the way to the glass. You may want to back off a couple of inches on each side so you can get a magfloat in there . It will also hide it a little better from the side view -- that is, if you are going to have the sides visible.

Jack

Medic415 · 07/16/2006, 08:07 PM

Didn't look at it like that. May have to go get to more caps.

06/13/2006, 05:45 AM	#1
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Preparing for take off! Finally after 2.5yrs, I have gotten permission to start a saltwater tank. This past Saturday I stopped at the closest LFS that deals with saltwater mainly. I was there about 8 months ago also. www.millersreef.com, but anyway since I'm a pretty busy person...working 2 jobs...the owner is going to build me a system. I chose a 46 gallon bowfront tank with stand...limited space at home. He is going to incoporate a 10 gallon sump/fuge into the system. I will be getting all the other goodies from him too rock, sand, other filtration-rock in the sump,...he was pro bioballs, but asked him not to due all the reading I have been doing, he reccomended VHO light for my budget. He didn't believe in a protien skimmer, states he has not problems with frequent water changes...but I think I will purchase a HOB after we get it set up. As soon as I get hings going I will start taking pictures....with any luck I will have water circulating by Friday...I hope anyway. I will keep all posted. Mike.

06/13/2006, 07:31 AM	#3
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	If you want inexpensive and proven lighting, VHO is hard to beat. You might also look into a 4x65W PC setup for that size of tank. If you ever did decide to upgrade your lighting, you can always use the VHOs/PCs for actinics + Halides or T5s for the more powerful penetration. I think your plan sounds fine, except I'd invest in a skimmer earlier rather than later. Jack __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

06/25/2006, 06:41 PM	#10
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	To explain a little more about RO/DI, the workhorse of the system is the RO membrane. The Dow Filmtec membrane is recommended by the experts here on RC because it filters out 98% of the "gunk", passing less through to the DI resin. The DI resin is the most commonly replaced part, so a good RO membrane will save you maintenance cost over the long haul because you will be replacing the DI less often. The 100 gpd membrane only gets 90%, and other membranes on ebay and elsewhere are not optimized for normal household water pressure. Good units, like the one at airwaterice or at melevsreef, use the Dow Filmtec membrane, and also use vertical full sized refillable DI cartridges that are more efficient than the small, horizontal DI chambers. Jack __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

07/13/2006, 06:15 AM	#14
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	Lookin' good __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

07/13/2006, 06:27 AM	#16
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	My AGA has a 3/4" bulkhead so my plumbing is 3/4" to the display. My pump is 1/2" output (eheim 1250) so my plumbing is 1/2" to the bulkhead. I think I would recommend you plumb your return for 3/4" as you can always reduce at the pump and 3/4" will give you less resistance for the pump to work against. Jack __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

06/13/2006, 07:06 AM	#2
techreef Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Montclair, NJ Posts: 1,046	Good luck Medic! 2.5 years is a LONG time to wait. I'm chomping at the bit after 10 months. Did you check out T5 lighting during your background reading? It's what I ended up going with for my 90G. Lighting is definitely a daunting topic to try and tackle, but from my reading it seems that as T5 lighting becomes more mainstream, more and more people are finding it the most versatile, and very energy efficient, method of reef tank lighting. (Assuming that you are using quality individual reflectors like IC reflectors) My tank doesn't have water in it yet (waiting for my plumbing supplies delivery from Savko) but I anticipate being able to keep just about any type of coral or clam that I choose with my 6 bulb T5 setup. Looking forward to your setup pics. Enjoy your tank!

06/13/2006, 08:55 AM	#4
ricks Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: portland,or Posts: 906	Get yourself a large protein skimmer.. Even with water changes, will be the best money you can spend.... Working 2 jobs doesn't leave alot of time. This hobby can require alot of time to be sucessful.

06/25/2006, 01:42 PM	#5
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Just got back from the LFS, think I'm going to need another job...just got his estimate on the build. Altered the specs.-46gal. Bow, stand, 20gal. sump/fuge with pump, don't remember the name or gpm, sand, 40-50lbs. premium Fiji rock, went with PC lighting over the VHO...Current Dual Satellite 192watts...10000k/6700 and 460/420 Actinic with moonlights. He is going to drill and place fitting in the tank and sump along with the plex in for the fuge. He is going to draw me a diagram and list the PVC that I will need to connect the tank and sump. Also getting the water from there...he assured me his RO/DI system is well maintained. Gonna mix the water myself, gonna go with Reef Crystals or Instant Ocean...any suggestions or opinion are well come. You will get pictures when I get them, probably another 2 weeks till I get things together. Be Safe. Mike.

06/25/2006, 02:36 PM	#6
TekCat Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: MN Posts: 3,130	to save some money tips: get 25lbs of LR from LFS. Another 25lbs you could get as dry (base rock) from online retailers. this rock is a "used t o be" live rock. With presense of real LR that you'd gt from LFS it will become real LR in no time, however it may take a couple of months for coralline algea to grow on them. As far as sand goes, get "dead" sand, not live "bagged". again, LR will seed an dead sand. Just don't get crushed coral, you'll be fighting algae after a while with crushed coral.

06/25/2006, 06:07 PM	#7
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Is this a decent deal? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...R25&lpage=none

06/25/2006, 06:59 PM	#11
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Thanks all for the input on this RO/DI question, cleared some things up for me. Mike.

07/12/2006, 08:49 PM	#13
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Here are some pictures of my tank and sump/refugium. Wanted a 20gal. sump, but it wouldn't sit in the stand, so settled for a 10gal. Just picked it today. I'm going to finish plumbing in the over flow and return myself. Probably won't be setting it up for several more weeks though. I decided to replace my carpet before I set the tank up. I'll post more in few weeks when I get a little further on my adventure.

07/13/2006, 06:17 AM	#15
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	What should I plumb the return with 1/2 or 3/4"? The overflow is 1".

07/13/2006, 06:39 AM	#17
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	I don't have a bulkhead forthe return, was just going to plumb over the top. The pump I have is a Mag Drive 500, looks to have a 1/2" discharge. I was leaning on 3/4". Thanks. Mike.

07/13/2006, 07:00 AM	#18
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	Yeah, over the top should be fine, and I agree with 3/4". __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

07/16/2006, 06:32 PM	#19
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Plumbed the tank and sump today. Filled checking for leaks. 1" over flow, 3/4" return to spray bar with 1/8" holes drilled at 1 1/2" apart. I have a MD5 pump in the sump. Can't wait now til we get our floor done over, so I can really start moving here. I know it will be several weeks yet, but I am really getting anxious. [IMG] http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...icture_018.jpg [/IMG]

07/16/2006, 07:05 PM	#20
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	Nice job! What's all that pipe on the bottom of the display tank? Jack __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

07/16/2006, 07:13 PM	#21
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Spraybar to create flow behing the rock, then I'm going to use a couple powerheads for added circulation.

07/16/2006, 07:24 PM	#22
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	Cool. I assume it will sit above the level of the sand. __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

07/16/2006, 07:33 PM	#23
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	More or less it will be, drilled the holes toward the top of the pvc. I was winging it a little bit. got extra pipe if it doesn't work out.

07/16/2006, 07:51 PM	#24
crumbletop Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,718	One other thought. You might not want the spaybar ends to go all the way to the glass. You may want to back off a couple of inches on each side so you can get a magfloat in there . It will also hide it a little better from the side view -- that is, if you are going to have the sides visible. Jack __________________ "Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton Current Tank Info: 90 gallon AGA RR. 20 gal sump. 6x54W T5. AquaController Jr.

07/16/2006, 08:07 PM	#25
Medic415 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Pa. Posts: 20	Didn't look at it like that. May have to go get to more caps.