Another Nitrate Question

slapshot16 · 06/20/2006, 09:34 AM

My Nitrates run between 40 and 80. I assume this is too high. Amonia and nitirite readings are 0. I have a crushed coral substrate and an Emporer with 2 bio wheels. I run carbon and and rinse the filter pads weekly. I do a 10 to 20% water change every 2 weeks.

Skimmer: Remora Pro. No sump. 55 gallon. 60 #s live rock.

Contents: A few zoos, snails, crabs, 2 clowns, 4 green chromis and 1 firefish.

Any idea on what is causing the high levels? Is it the crushed coral? Is it the bio-wheels? Is it the filter pads? Thanks.

Shooter7 · 06/20/2006, 09:49 AM

If you're truly that regular with cleaning the filter pads, then I'm going to guess some other possibilities:

Overfeeding

Too much waste and food being kept in the tank because of the type of substrate, possibly coupled with not enough flow in the tank to keep things stirred up enough for the skimmer and filter to export it.

ERICN · 06/20/2006, 10:30 AM

I will guess the bio wheels most don't clean them with every filter pad change I would toss em run the filter without them they are like bio balls=nitrate factories

bmrigs · 06/20/2006, 10:53 AM

bio wheels and substrate could be culprits

slapshot16 · 06/20/2006, 09:02 PM

Thanks. The tank has been up and running since February. I thought I read some where that you should not clean the bio-wheels because of the good bacteria. That said, I will remove one bio wheel. Wait 2 weeks and then remove the other.

IslandCrow · 06/20/2006, 09:23 PM

Give some thought to switching out that biowheel for a protein skimmer. I've also heard that crushed coral is really bad for trapping detritus, which could cause high nitrate levels. I'd bet the biggest culprit is not having a protein skimmer to get that DOC (dissolved organic compounds) out of the water. Also, how much live rock do you have. If you have a sufficient amount (1 lb/gal is usually recommended), it should handle your bio load, and the biowheel would no longer be serving a purpose, which is a good thing, since the rock is a much better choice for breaking down nitrates. I can't remember this for sure, but I don't think biowheels will actually break down nitrates, since you're not going to get the anaerobic (or whatever the proper term is) area where the bacteria can convert the nitrates into nitrogen gas.

slapshot16 · 06/25/2006, 04:32 PM

I run a remora pro skimmer with a Mag 3 pump and skimmer box. I removed the Emporer filter. I have about 60 pounds of live rock. I have two poweheads for circulation and the skimmer. I plan on removing the crushed coral and adding live sand. I am not looking forward to that process. Basically breaking down the tank. But, when I do, I can drop a 20L into the stand as a sump.

I will test for nitrates in a few days and see if removing the filter helped. I did a 15% water change and vacuumed the coral really good.

jmorgret · 06/25/2006, 05:59 PM

I'm in a similar position. Would it be worth taking the bio-wheels off and leaving the filter to run with nothing at all in it, with just the filter pads alone or take the whole thing off and maybe adding another power head?

slapshot16 · 06/26/2006, 07:49 AM

Go ahead and remove the bio-wheels. Wait a week or so and then remove the filter pads. In the interim, make sure the pads are cleaned weekly. When I removed the filter, there was lots of gunk in the bottom of the two chambers. This stuff probably was rotting and causing some of the nitrate problems. I will post test results later this week.

Running the filter without the wheels will help with the flow. I would eventually remove the whole thing and add another powehead. This assumes you have enough live rock for filtration.

mikeatjac · 06/26/2006, 07:54 AM

I vote for the bioballs and the crushed coral.

It you can remove the crushed coral and replace it with sand. Make sure you have a lot of flow.

sir_dudeguy · 06/26/2006, 09:22 AM

jmorgret---

you can take out all the media if you want...if you've got live rock it probably isnt helping much...and i think you could take out the pads too, because i'd imagine thats just another place for nitrates...just use the thing for flow..thats what i'm doing to my fluval, since the biomedia is being a nitrate factory, i'm slowly takin out all the media/sponge pads and i'm just gonna use it for flow (thats a whole 260 gph lost if i take it off completely)...maybe i'll sell it tho and get 2 powerheads lol.

Landshark18 · 06/26/2006, 09:43 AM

i had the same prob with CC so i started from scratch with sand in my 35 gal and everything is now peachy.

Tate · 06/26/2006, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by slapshot16
Thanks. The tank has been up and running since February. I thought I read some where that you should not clean the bio-wheels because of the good bacteria. That said, I will remove one bio wheel. Wait 2 weeks and then remove the other.

This is true for a freshwater tank. I learned the same lesson the hard way when I made the switch a few years ago.

sir_dudeguy · 06/26/2006, 10:10 AM

yep..tates right...it IS true...for freshwater

06/20/2006, 09:34 AM	#1
slapshot16 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 341	Another Nitrate Question My Nitrates run between 40 and 80. I assume this is too high. Amonia and nitirite readings are 0. I have a crushed coral substrate and an Emporer with 2 bio wheels. I run carbon and and rinse the filter pads weekly. I do a 10 to 20% water change every 2 weeks. Skimmer: Remora Pro. No sump. 55 gallon. 60 #s live rock. Contents: A few zoos, snails, crabs, 2 clowns, 4 green chromis and 1 firefish. Any idea on what is causing the high levels? Is it the crushed coral? Is it the bio-wheels? Is it the filter pads? Thanks.

06/20/2006, 09:49 AM	#2
Shooter7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tolono, IL Posts: 6,754	If you're truly that regular with cleaning the filter pads, then I'm going to guess some other possibilities: Overfeeding Too much waste and food being kept in the tank because of the type of substrate, possibly coupled with not enough flow in the tank to keep things stirred up enough for the skimmer and filter to export it. __________________ Dave Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return

06/20/2006, 09:23 PM	#6
IslandCrow Reef Monkey Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Rockledge, Fl Posts: 5,759	Give some thought to switching out that biowheel for a protein skimmer. I've also heard that crushed coral is really bad for trapping detritus, which could cause high nitrate levels. I'd bet the biggest culprit is not having a protein skimmer to get that DOC (dissolved organic compounds) out of the water. Also, how much live rock do you have. If you have a sufficient amount (1 lb/gal is usually recommended), it should handle your bio load, and the biowheel would no longer be serving a purpose, which is a good thing, since the rock is a much better choice for breaking down nitrates. I can't remember this for sure, but I don't think biowheels will actually break down nitrates, since you're not going to get the anaerobic (or whatever the proper term is) area where the bacteria can convert the nitrates into nitrogen gas. __________________ All opinions in the above message should be taken with 35 ppt salt. -Mike C. Current Tank Info: I have a reef screen saver on my phone, does that count?

06/26/2006, 07:54 AM	#10
mikeatjac Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 2,433	I vote for the bioballs and the crushed coral. It you can remove the crushed coral and replace it with sand. Make sure you have a lot of flow. __________________ Red Sea Reefer 525 - BK 160- G5 Blue - GHL

06/26/2006, 09:22 AM	#11
sir_dudeguy Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 10,841	jmorgret--- you can take out all the media if you want...if you've got live rock it probably isnt helping much...and i think you could take out the pads too, because i'd imagine thats just another place for nitrates...just use the thing for flow..thats what i'm doing to my fluval, since the biomedia is being a nitrate factory, i'm slowly takin out all the media/sponge pads and i'm just gonna use it for flow (thats a whole 260 gph lost if i take it off completely)...maybe i'll sell it tho and get 2 powerheads lol. __________________ TAKE...LUCK!!!

06/20/2006, 10:30 AM	#3
ERICN Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: MISSOURI Posts: 310	I will guess the bio wheels most don't clean them with every filter pad change I would toss em run the filter without them they are like bio balls=nitrate factories

06/20/2006, 10:53 AM	#4
bmrigs Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL Posts: 198	bio wheels and substrate could be culprits

06/20/2006, 09:02 PM	#5
slapshot16 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 341	Thanks. The tank has been up and running since February. I thought I read some where that you should not clean the bio-wheels because of the good bacteria. That said, I will remove one bio wheel. Wait 2 weeks and then remove the other.

06/25/2006, 04:32 PM	#7
slapshot16 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 341	I run a remora pro skimmer with a Mag 3 pump and skimmer box. I removed the Emporer filter. I have about 60 pounds of live rock. I have two poweheads for circulation and the skimmer. I plan on removing the crushed coral and adding live sand. I am not looking forward to that process. Basically breaking down the tank. But, when I do, I can drop a 20L into the stand as a sump. I will test for nitrates in a few days and see if removing the filter helped. I did a 15% water change and vacuumed the coral really good.

06/25/2006, 05:59 PM	#8
jmorgret Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Lexington, KY Posts: 319	I'm in a similar position. Would it be worth taking the bio-wheels off and leaving the filter to run with nothing at all in it, with just the filter pads alone or take the whole thing off and maybe adding another power head?

06/26/2006, 07:49 AM	#9
slapshot16 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 341	Go ahead and remove the bio-wheels. Wait a week or so and then remove the filter pads. In the interim, make sure the pads are cleaned weekly. When I removed the filter, there was lots of gunk in the bottom of the two chambers. This stuff probably was rotting and causing some of the nitrate problems. I will post test results later this week. Running the filter without the wheels will help with the flow. I would eventually remove the whole thing and add another powehead. This assumes you have enough live rock for filtration.

06/26/2006, 09:43 AM	#12
Landshark18 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 85	i had the same prob with CC so i started from scratch with sand in my 35 gal and everything is now peachy.

06/26/2006, 10:10 AM	#14
sir_dudeguy Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 10,841	yep..tates right...it IS true...for freshwater __________________ TAKE...LUCK!!!