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07/30/2006, 11:17 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: west side of Indianapolis
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175 Or 250?
I want to upgrade from VHO to MH. I plan on going with 14K or 15K. Water surface to substrate is 22 inches and the bulbs will sit about 6 inches above the water surface. I will have to run a dual set up (or will I?) because my 70g corner bow has a center brace on the top. Will 175 watts each work for me? Or do I need 250 watts each?
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Gerald Current Tank Info: 90g, built in overflow, 2 Reeflux 20k 250w, 2 Ice Cap 250w elec ballasts, 2 Hydor Koralia's 3 and 2, 29g sump, RIO 3100 return, AquaC EV180 w/Mag 9, GEO 612 Ca Reactor, 85# live rock (half Fiji, half Kalieni), 180# live sand. |
07/30/2006, 11:20 PM | #2 |
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Location: wisconsin
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A 175 or 250 would both work depending on what you are keeping.
175 would work for most corals amd clams,but 250 would guaranty whatever. |
07/31/2006, 06:37 AM | #3 |
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Location: Westchester County, NY
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I'd suggest that you do go with the 250s. You'd be assuring sufficient light that way without "pushing" the lighting issue in any way.
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I'd keep the whole ocean if my den were big enough Current Tank Info: 120 gallon reef with 210 lbs. of live rock, Aqua-C EV180 Skimmer, Aquactinic double 250W MH with blue plus t5 support; 58 gallon freshwater planted tank using CO2 and T5s; 30-gallon cube with a few fancy goldfish; and a 110 gallon FOWLR |
07/31/2006, 05:26 PM | #4 |
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Location: houstonia
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Kind of depends what you want to keep. It probably would be easier to just get the 250 now, as it's not that much more up front. The power usage isnt negligible (running 8 hours a day, each bulb would be about 2.50 more a month), but it's not much.
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-Chris- You don't win friends with salad. "Look! They're trying to learn for free!" ... "Use your phony guns as clubs!" Current Tank Info: rectangluar? wet? |
08/02/2006, 05:58 PM | #5 |
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250 it is. I am thinking that I will absolutely need a dual setup because of my center brace possibly melting or causing shadows even if it doesn't melt. I do want a couple of clams, some softies, LPS, and possibly a little bit of SPS. Can I get away with 15k and no actinic supplements? How will it look (white, blue, yellow)?
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Gerald Current Tank Info: 90g, built in overflow, 2 Reeflux 20k 250w, 2 Ice Cap 250w elec ballasts, 2 Hydor Koralia's 3 and 2, 29g sump, RIO 3100 return, AquaC EV180 w/Mag 9, GEO 612 Ca Reactor, 85# live rock (half Fiji, half Kalieni), 180# live sand. |
08/02/2006, 06:43 PM | #6 |
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Location: maryland
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I would go with the 250s that way when you use a 14 or 15 K bulb you will still have a good amount of Light. (PAR)
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I found a way to make a small fortune running a reef tank. Start with a large fortune. Unofficial President of the SEACLONE haters club Current Tank Info: 125 mixed reef 110 lbs LR, 1x250watt XM 20K MH 2x175watt XM 20K MH on Magetics 2X96 watt actinic PC, 220 watt VHO actinic, 30 gallon refugium, closed loop system powered by Sequence Dart MSX 200 skimmer 38 gallon sump, Oceansmotions squirt |
08/03/2006, 01:21 AM | #7 |
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I few of us have switched to Iwasaki's new 15K, 175w single ended. Especially w/ an electronic ballast, they put out the same or higher output than many 250 bulb/ballast combos.
Do a reef central search on Iwasaki Aqua2 14k 15K (Sanjay might have mistakenly labeled the bulb in his test, as an Iwasaki 14k doesn't exist). To find the report do a net search for sanjay and Iwasaki. Compare PAR values between that 175 bulb/ballast combo, and various 250 bulb/ballasts. I've increased light by replacing 250w XM 15k bulb by changing the ballast to a 175 and installing an Iwasaki Aqua2. If you perform some searches on various forums and search engines, I think you'll only find positive comments about this bulb, largely how it rivals a 250 bulb, and delivers excellent color tones. |
08/03/2006, 12:13 PM | #8 |
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Location: California
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I got alot more growth from my 250 than my 175's.
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