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Unread 08/24/2006, 10:08 AM   #1
Im Lon 2
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How many people have there sumps in the basement, with there main tank up stairs?

Would like to know what Name/Size Return pump you went with, and are you Happy with it?


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Unread 08/24/2006, 10:15 AM   #2
dkh0331
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Panworld 200PS pump from the basement sump and very happy with it. Having the sump in the basement, if you can, is the only way to go, IMPHO.

David


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Unread 08/24/2006, 10:25 AM   #3
Ocicat
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I do! It has only been running for about 2 weeks, but FWIW I have an Iwaki MD100RLT. I think it is too powerful... and I have yet to see its effects on my electricity bill!

I have a ball valve on the line between the sump & the pump, and I have it closed about halfway - but even so there is serious water movement in the display... I still haven't gotten the return nozzles positioned quite right, so I have big gaps in my sandbed where the bottom glass is visible b/c the force from the return blasted the sand away.


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Unread 08/24/2006, 10:32 AM   #4
Im Lon 2
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ocicat
I have a ball valve on the line between the sump & the pump, and I have it closed about halfway
I thought you were supose to turn them down after the pump. I have never thought about that before but do plan on have a ball valve as well and want to make sure it is in the right place.


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Unread 08/24/2006, 10:37 AM   #5
Fade
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Yes Lonnie you should do it after the pump. Pumps are made to push not suck water you will make alot of heat and wear out your bearings faster.


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Unread 08/24/2006, 10:40 AM   #6
dkh0331
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Yes, the valve should go after the pump.

I've used both ball and gate valves - my humble suggestion is to spend the extra few $$$'s and get the gate valve - sooooooooo much easier to adjust/fine tune your flow.

HTH

David


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Unread 08/24/2006, 10:57 AM   #7
capncapo
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Quote:
Originally posted by fade32
Yes Lonnie you should do it after the pump. Pumps are made to push not suck water you will make alot of heat and wear out your bearings faster.
I agree!

It's almost like John knows of what he speaks!

Starving the pump is not the way to go!


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Unread 08/24/2006, 11:10 AM   #8
DARKSILENTTYPE
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I do


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Unread 08/24/2006, 12:15 PM   #9
Ocicat
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OK, that is what I have seen done by others, but I actually didn't put the ball valve there for that reason - I put it there so I can close off the sump and remove the pump if I need to. When I found that my pump was pushing too much water I used it as a quick fix to slow the flow. I'll look into adding a valve above the pump to use instead, but all the gate valves I've seen are metal...


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Unread 08/24/2006, 12:39 PM   #10
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http://www.savko.com/partlist.asp?pgid=1


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Unread 08/24/2006, 06:49 PM   #11
SSTG
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Mine is in the basement.Would not have it any other way.For noise reduction alone.I have two pumps 1 Iwaki 70rlt and genx pump


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Unread 08/24/2006, 08:35 PM   #12
Im Lon 2
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I'm looking at the Sequence - Reeflow - Hammer head at 16' it is still rated at 3600 GPH. If it is to much I will dial it down with a Gate Valve.


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Unread 08/25/2006, 11:51 AM   #13
timgrah
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I have been using a Pan World 200ps for about the last year and it has been working great.

Tim


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Unread 08/25/2006, 12:19 PM   #14
dela
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I run a GenX Mak 4. Nice and quiet. My only complaint is that I get a lot of bubbles coming into the sump due to the large elevation drop and I didn't design a bubble trap for them.


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Unread 08/25/2006, 12:33 PM   #15
dkh0331
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I put a small Brute in my rubbermaid sump. Drilled a couple of holes in the lid for the drain lines and about 6-7 1-1/2 inch holes about 1/2 way up. No splatter from the water coming into the sump and no bubbles at all.

HTH

David


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Unread 08/25/2006, 12:38 PM   #16
redFishblue
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Quote:
Originally posted by Im Lon 2
I'm looking at the Sequence - Reeflow - Hammer head at 16' it is still rated at 3600 GPH. If it is to much I will dial it down with a Gate Valve.
You won't go wrong with the Sequence. I used one for the sump in the basement.
Super quiet and did not use that much electricity either I believe.


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Unread 08/25/2006, 01:59 PM   #17
Im Lon 2
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Quote:
Originally posted by dkh0331
I put a small Brute in my rubbermaid sump. Drilled a couple of holes in the lid for the drain lines and about 6-7 1-1/2 inch holes about 1/2 way up. No splatter from the water coming into the sump and no bubbles at all.

HTH

David
I did the same thing on the 240 but I used a Salt bucket.


I plan on doing the same thing on the new tank. But this time I will have 2 - 2" holes drilled for the drains.. So I hope this little bucket holds up.


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Current Tank Info: Coming soon -- 180G (Glass Cages) In-Wall - Reef - 100g sump - 30g Fuge - - Octopus DNW 300 - 8 * 54 watt T5's
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Unread 08/25/2006, 03:07 PM   #18
marino420td
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Lonnie, are you getting any micro bubbles in the sump at all with that setup? I have a salt bucket in my sump but I am letting the water overflow the top of the bucket and into the sump. Still getting some bubbles.




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Unread 08/25/2006, 03:14 PM   #19
Im Lon 2
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No none at all. I cut PVC pipe and drilled holes under the bucket and ziped tied the PVC pipe where the bucket sat above the water line.

what size are your drain holes coming out of the tank?


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Current Tank Info: Coming soon -- 180G (Glass Cages) In-Wall - Reef - 100g sump - 30g Fuge - - Octopus DNW 300 - 8 * 54 watt T5's
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Unread 08/25/2006, 05:27 PM   #20
marino420td
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1 1/2" but I cut it down to 1" going into the sump. Here is a picture of my plumbing. I direct feed my skimmer from my overflow as well.




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Unread 08/25/2006, 06:56 PM   #21
Lost Marbles
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I have my sump and refuge down stairs with two pan world 200PS for returns. The presure coming back from up stairs was enough to feed my refuse, turbo floater 5000 needle wheel skimmer, UV sterilizer and my calk reactor. Then they all drain back in to the sump for the journey back up stairs. I don't back off the two Pan World 200PS pumps.


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