Questions about waterproofing my DIY wood canopy

b0wenj · 08/26/2006, 02:28 PM

I have just made a canopy for some T5 lights that I bought. I wanted to get some advice on what I can coat the inside of the canopy with to make it waterproof. I was thinking of using polyurathane but I am thinking I would be applying tons of coats and not sure how it would react over time to saltwater. Someone told me about using apoxy but I can not remember what kind.

Please give me some suggestions? Thanks

gsxrguru2 · 08/26/2006, 04:12 PM

I just used a white exterior paint. As long as you have air circulating through your canopy, the need for it to be waterproof is minimal. As soon as I hooked my fans up there was absolutely no moisture inside it anymore.

rgaskins · 08/26/2006, 04:40 PM

I did the same as James...

jluben · 08/26/2006, 07:32 PM

I used this shellac based sealant from Home Depot called B-I-N. Don't know what the acronym is for.

The stuff dries real fast. It's dry to the touch in 15 minutes and recoatable in 45. It's like a primer/sealer, comes in white, so you can still use a colored oil topcoat on it.

b0wenj · 08/26/2006, 08:06 PM

Thanks for all the information. I actually got in a hurry (like we all do) and just went to Wal-Mart and bought some Kilz. I have used this stuff for years on mold situations and did not relize it makes a water proof barrier. So I am using this.

Thanks again.

daveverdo · 08/26/2006, 08:16 PM

As a woodworking hobbyist I will say that shellac is not the best choice. Shellec is one of the least water durable wood finishes. In todays world almost anything is non-toxic once it cures. The key to anything is curing properly. No matter what you use you will need to but on multiple coats. Three coats of a good poly will be good. If you havent mastered wood finishing use a wipe on poly. You just wide it on with a cloth. It is essentially thinned poly. It will dry a littl equicker than brush on poly but because it is thinned it will require additional coats. When using wipe on, I usually do three wipe on coats, lightly sand, three more coats, lightly sand, and then three more coats. If you want a satin or semi gloss finish you need to swish the poly around while you are working, don't shake it that will make bubbles that will end up in the finish. The swirling keep the flattening agent suspended ptherwise you will get a very uneven gloss finish.

Because the wide on is easier to apply and dries quicker the 9 coats of wipe on takes about as long as three coats of brush on. You have much better control of the finish with the wide on.

Dave

flyyyguy · 08/26/2006, 08:36 PM

Poly is the way to go, regardless if the finish is paint or stain. The brush on stuff isnt difficult, just takes a little elbow grease on the sanding in between, more so if you are sloppy.....

i personally like minwax spar urethane

08/26/2006, 02:28 PM	#1
b0wenj Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 240	Questions about waterproofing my DIY wood canopy I have just made a canopy for some T5 lights that I bought. I wanted to get some advice on what I can coat the inside of the canopy with to make it waterproof. I was thinking of using polyurathane but I am thinking I would be applying tons of coats and not sure how it would react over time to saltwater. Someone told me about using apoxy but I can not remember what kind. Please give me some suggestions? Thanks

08/26/2006, 04:12 PM	#2
gsxrguru2 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 657	I just used a white exterior paint. As long as you have air circulating through your canopy, the need for it to be waterproof is minimal. As soon as I hooked my fans up there was absolutely no moisture inside it anymore. __________________ James Current Tank Info: 125g w/ custom acrylic sump. Assortment of softies, LPS's and SPS's. Regal Tang, Flame Angel, Lyretail Anthias, Yellow Tang, Harlequin Tusk. 3 250w Ushio 10k HQI's Sequence Dart on Closed Loop

08/26/2006, 04:40 PM	#3
rgaskins Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Ft. Mill S.C. Posts: 142	I did the same as James... __________________ Rick Gaskins Current Tank Info: 180Gal. Mixed Reef

08/26/2006, 08:36 PM	#7
flyyyguy King of the white corals Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,239	Poly is the way to go, regardless if the finish is paint or stain. The brush on stuff isnt difficult, just takes a little elbow grease on the sanding in between, more so if you are sloppy..... i personally like minwax spar urethane __________________ I like holding hands, snuggling, and long walks on the beach

08/26/2006, 07:32 PM	#4
jluben Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2	I used this shellac based sealant from Home Depot called B-I-N. Don't know what the acronym is for. The stuff dries real fast. It's dry to the touch in 15 minutes and recoatable in 45. It's like a primer/sealer, comes in white, so you can still use a colored oil topcoat on it.

08/26/2006, 08:06 PM	#5
b0wenj Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 240	Thanks for all the information. I actually got in a hurry (like we all do) and just went to Wal-Mart and bought some Kilz. I have used this stuff for years on mold situations and did not relize it makes a water proof barrier. So I am using this. Thanks again.

08/26/2006, 08:16 PM	#6
daveverdo Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Horseheads, NY Posts: 1,881	As a woodworking hobbyist I will say that shellac is not the best choice. Shellec is one of the least water durable wood finishes. In todays world almost anything is non-toxic once it cures. The key to anything is curing properly. No matter what you use you will need to but on multiple coats. Three coats of a good poly will be good. If you havent mastered wood finishing use a wipe on poly. You just wide it on with a cloth. It is essentially thinned poly. It will dry a littl equicker than brush on poly but because it is thinned it will require additional coats. When using wipe on, I usually do three wipe on coats, lightly sand, three more coats, lightly sand, and then three more coats. If you want a satin or semi gloss finish you need to swish the poly around while you are working, don't shake it that will make bubbles that will end up in the finish. The swirling keep the flattening agent suspended ptherwise you will get a very uneven gloss finish. Because the wide on is easier to apply and dries quicker the 9 coats of wipe on takes about as long as three coats of brush on. You have much better control of the finish with the wide on. Dave