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09/06/2006, 07:17 AM | #1 |
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Location: Kent, OH
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Sump/Fuge design question
Okay, I am setting up a new tank in a hurry to replace the one that developed a leak yesterday. As the new tank is bigger, I want to go with a bigger sump/fuge. I've been looking at all the designs on the website, and they all seem to involve inserting many verticle pieces of glass/plexiglass as dividers. First, can anyone tell me why three are used together (two from the bottom and one from the top) instead of just one?
Now, I had an alternative idea, which no one seems to be using. I figure there's probably a good reason. I was thinking of using a 35 gallon rubbermaid tub, and running my drain plumbing right into the intake of my poseidon venturi protein skimmer, then running the output through a gate valve (as opposed to a stand pipe) to regulate water height in the skimmer, and directly into the sump through a bulkhead (obviously the skimmer will need to be higher than the sump). Is there some reason that won't work? Then, at the other end of the sump, I was planning to use a bulkhead, a tee, and two 90 degree elbows to create two stand pipes which will directly feed the mag 12 outside the fuge. Is there some reason this won't work? Do I have to have dividers for something? Any advice is appreciated. Jim Jensen |
09/06/2006, 09:02 AM | #2 |
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Location: madisonville, KY
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http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=81229
Is this something like you are talking about? Let me know if you can't see the pictures and I will try to post them a different way. The only difference here is that he has a wet/dry in the rubbermaid. |
09/06/2006, 09:08 AM | #3 |
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Location: madisonville, KY
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Also, the reason for the group of 3 baffles in a sump is for a bubble trap to keep bubbles from your skimmer getting into your main display.
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09/06/2006, 09:36 AM | #4 |
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Yes, that's pretty much like what I am talking about, on a MUCH larger scale. If the pump and skimmer are outside the sump, then I see no reason to put any dividers/baffels in at all. Just a standpipe leading to the return pump, like you have in the tub.
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09/06/2006, 01:58 PM | #5 |
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Location: madisonville, KY
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What he has done here is part of the intake is going to the skimmer to wet/dry to return and the part going directly to wet/dry to return. In the rubbermaid, he has made a shelf with pvc and egg crate, loaded it with bio balls and used a drip tray on top.
What size tank are you setting up? The pond he has his filter on is a 300 gal. I'm not sure what size rubbermaid he used but I know its big. |
09/06/2006, 02:22 PM | #6 |
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I am setting up a 150 XH. I was planning to use a 35G rubbermaid, in the stand.
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09/07/2006, 10:32 PM | #7 |
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Okay, two more questions regarding the fuge: 1. What do you guys use/recommend for places where you need to plumb through the side of a tub or tank? Do you use a proper bulkhead fitting, and if so, where do you get one? Do you use the uniseals that Salty Critter sells? Or do you just use a male treaded fitting on one side into a female on the other, and use some marine goop to seal it?
2. I ran out to Wally Word in the midst of the crisis the other day and picked up a 37 gallon Sterlite tub. Unfortunatly, now that it is filled with water, the sides are bowed out until it looks ready to collapse. Is there a better kind of tub? Rubbermaid or something? Or should I build a frame to go around the tub just under the lip to give it some shape? Or do you have another suggestion? Thanks in advance for the help. Jim |
09/08/2006, 01:00 AM | #8 |
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Location: Gilbert, AZ
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I tried a rubbermaid sump. The roughtote I think they were and they bowed similarly. Don't go over half full. I wouldn't use them long term.
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What if the hokey pokey is what it's all about. Current Tank Info: 100 G. Acrylic in wall (35 gallon sump), 20 gal. AGA (sumpless) |
09/08/2006, 03:47 AM | #9 |
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Location: Kent, OH
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Really? That's what I was planning to use for a long-term sump.
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