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10/11/2006, 11:26 AM | #1 |
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reversal into sump after loss of Power...help
What do I need to do to prevent the water reversing back into the sump if I lose power and flooding my floor????
It happened twice Thanks. |
10/11/2006, 11:29 AM | #2 |
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leave enough room in the sump so that in the event of a power loss the water will just barely fill it.
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10/11/2006, 11:32 AM | #3 |
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Im not sure what your setup is but on mine I drilled a hole in the return pipe in the tank right below the water surface.
When it starts to drain and gets as far as the hole it stops. kass |
10/11/2006, 11:34 AM | #4 |
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Having both of the forementioned on your tank works better than having one or the other.
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
10/11/2006, 11:39 AM | #5 |
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Someone I talked to mentioned a one-way valve. Have anyone used one??
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10/11/2006, 11:48 AM | #6 |
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One way valves will eventually stick with calcium build up or other types of build up. The two above fixes are a better option.
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Freed Current Tank Info: 180gal(1120 watts of MH/VHO light), 60gal "sump", Deltec 601 calcium reactor, Euro Reef CS8-3+ skimmer, 20 gallon QT |
10/11/2006, 12:26 PM | #7 |
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I to drilled some holes in the return line just under the water surface. And be sure to clean them every now and then.
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10/11/2006, 01:05 PM | #8 |
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Drilling the holes as noted above is a good way to assure that too much water won't drain down into your sump to overflow it. But, be sure that you don't drill the hole too close to the water line. With movement on the surface from powerheads, sump return, etc., the water could ripple down below the hole if it's too high up, causing micro-bubbles which you want to avoid. So, drill the hole at a level sufficiently below the surface so that it's definitely always in the water.
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I'd keep the whole ocean if my den were big enough Current Tank Info: 120 gallon reef with 210 lbs. of live rock, Aqua-C EV180 Skimmer, Aquactinic double 250W MH with blue plus t5 support; 58 gallon freshwater planted tank using CO2 and T5s; 30-gallon cube with a few fancy goldfish; and a 110 gallon FOWLR |
10/11/2006, 01:14 PM | #9 |
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Arent you supposed to put the hole _above_ the water line? I dont see how air will get into line to break the siphon if its below the water line.
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10/11/2006, 01:25 PM | #10 |
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You best options are to have your returns slightly below the surface so once they are exposed they create an air break and stop the back siphon, in combination with room in the sump to contain a worst case backflow.
Check valves are mechanical devices and even though they are simple they will fail. Siphon break holes are a good idea but again they can and will fail due to lack of cleaning and maintenance, a snail over the hole etc. If you can, do it right and raise the returns so they are just below the water surface so they don't create splashing or noise but will be uncovered with no more than a few gallons of backflow. Keep the room for that amount of water plus a little fudge factor in your sump at all times, use a sharpie or some way to mark that level and never fill past that point and you are safe. |
10/11/2006, 01:28 PM | #11 |
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Air gets in it when the pump is shut off and the water drains out of the tank into the sump.
kass |
10/11/2006, 01:52 PM | #12 |
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How big of a diameter? What drill bit size should I use??
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10/11/2006, 01:59 PM | #13 |
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You are using a crutch and not fixing the problem.
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10/11/2006, 02:04 PM | #14 |
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I was just asking how big of a hole I should make
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10/11/2006, 02:06 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
It doesn't take a very large hole, I don't have my bits handy but 1/8" or so should do. |
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10/11/2006, 02:12 PM | #16 |
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You can drill 2 or 3 holes just below the water line. Snails tend to cover them sometimes. And as stated just place your return line just below the waterline and that will work too.
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"No honey I can't just send it back. It's all wet and they won't take it back now!" Current Tank Info: 90g inwall with a 30g sump |
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