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10/28/2006, 06:32 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 30
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Transforming non reef-ready to reef-ready (120gal)
Hey guys,
I'm sick of my external overflow losing it's syphon. It's just tedious and stupid that I've got to worry about this thing every couple of days... So, I've decided that I'm going to make my tank "Semi reef-ready". So you ask, what does "semi" reef ready mean? Well, this is where you experts are to help me out a bit. I cannot empty this tank to drill it out on the bottom...and while I'm pretty sure the glass on the bottom of my tank is NOT tempered I still don't want to drill it out (for obvious reasons). So, what I'd like to do is this: Create internal overflow boxes on each side. They will be the WIDTH of the tank (about 24") and about 6" deep into the tank. This is why I call it "Semi" reef ready...most reef ready tanks are drilled on the bottom and the overflow goes all the way from top to bottom. Mine will only go from the surface of the water to 6" down. I will drill my tank out on the side and as close to that 6" depth as possible. Is this ok????? I've been thinking about this and put all of my measurements and all down on paper... But I'm wondering if I'm missing something here. Any help or tips here????? On the drilling...I've read up on it extensively so I don't need a lot of help there. I really would just like your input on the design of this internal overflow box and if it's really considered better than an external. Thanks in advance guys!!!! Nate
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I love animals. Current Tank Info: 120 Reef - with 120 gals of fuge. |
10/28/2006, 10:39 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Posts: 266
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Heres my 120 i'm starting, i did an internal overflow.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=901530 |
10/28/2006, 10:42 PM | #3 |
On Yer left!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 18,777
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FWIW, there is no reason you cant have a perfectly reliable HOB overflow. You have to have the right one and have it setup correctly. It should run indefinitely without a siphon loss.
Just throwing that out. If you want to go that route, I can help.
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- Scott |
10/28/2006, 11:51 PM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 201
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go with a Life Reef HOB overflow, I've got one that has been set up on a 75 gallon for 6 years now and has never lost siphon, it is a very well designed overflow
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10/29/2006, 04:50 AM | #5 |
On Yer left!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 18,777
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Yup. Running 2 years on a Lifereef here. Never even a hint of an issue. I have no doubt the thing would run forever without a problem.
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- Scott |
10/29/2006, 12:55 PM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 30
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Thanks guys for the tips on the hang on units...
I've already started the project and am done trying new things (no offense meant, honestly). At least I know that this will work once completed correctly. The tank has access from both sides (viewed from both) so the overflows will be on each side. Keep any ideas/thoughts coming guys. I appreciate it. I'm new to fabricating tank stuff so it's a work in progress...so when I start posting pics please be kind and offer constructive help. Thanks!!!! Nate
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I love animals. Current Tank Info: 120 Reef - with 120 gals of fuge. |
10/30/2006, 12:33 PM | #7 |
Gene Pool Lifeguard
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 758
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Nate, if you need a hand with anything, give me a shout. I am just down the road.
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Chris "A Closed Mouth Gathers No Foot" - Unknown Some people are like Slinkies . . . not really good for anything, but you still can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. Current Tank Info: 120 gallon, Ecosystem 3612, 6X54 TEK light, Tunze Osmolator, Lifereef dual overflow all down |
10/30/2006, 01:06 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SE Suburbia Wisconsin
Posts: 2,910
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Okay here is how did it on my old tank.
First off I drilled into the back of the tank with the top of the hole about 3" below the the desired water line. Then I built a three sided box with a bottom about 12" high, 3" deep, and 12" long. The top of the box had a saw tooth pattern to it with slots 3/16" wide every 1/2 inch and about 1" deep. After putting a bulkhead fitting into the hole I siliconed the plexi-glass box over the hole. This worked out great for me the surface water overflowed into the box and the box never filled as the bulkhead was piped down to my proten skimmer tank. After some adjustments to the pump I found the max handling rate of this set up was about 550 gph, so I ran about 300 gph for my sump return to be on the safe side. If you need more flow you could always make the box longer or go to multiple box set ups like this. Dennis
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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