Staring a new Reef Tank info needed

Ratto · 11/06/2006, 08:38 PM

I am planning on starting a new reef tank. The trouble is my brain is about 7 years outdated along with my current 65 gallon reef tank. I know I want a glass tank (either standard or bow front) between 125-150 gallon. I will be getting Medal Halydes for lights. I would like some sort of variable flow control. I plan on using submersible pumps to run the whole thing. And that's about it folks for my knowledge. What kind of sump, UV filter, Skimmer, ....ect because I have know idea. Thanks for any input.

smcdonn · 11/06/2006, 09:07 PM

Well UV filters are a hot debate, I don't run one but some do. I have a Euro Reef Skimmer and love it. Of course some people swear by ASM, Deltec, etc... I am not really sure what you mean by "what kind of sump". Maybe some other people will chime in.

cilyjr · 11/06/2006, 09:28 PM

if you want to know about sumps look here
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html
i use the coralife super skimmer i think it does a good job!
as far as variable flow control from sump to tank a t joint with a ball valve will give you all the control you need (look on melev's page for a pic) also you will want more flow than just the sump return. maybe a closed loop would be the way to go.

rreddick · 11/06/2006, 09:51 PM

JR,
So I will add my 2 cents to the thread. I am running a 180 with a 50 G sump and a 10 G ref. The sump is designed in 3 sections, section 1 for tank overflow pickup (note - with the size tank you are looking at get at least 2 - 1" overflows, 2 - 1 1/2 would be ideal) This section is also th eplace in the sump for the bulkhead to feed the Skimmer pump. Other option is a in sump skimmer. I use a Percision Marine Bullet 2 and love it but there are many other good skimmers. The second section is divided by baffles which hold a vdery coarse sponge for micro bubble control. In the second section area I have two heaters and 30# of live rock, The third section is for the return pump pickup through another bulkhead again divided by baffles for bubble control and to maintain the water level in the LR section two.

I use a control valve on the drain from the main tank to control flow and overflow water level. I use a second pair of 1" overflows at a higher level as a backup into the sump. I use a Iwaki mag drive return pump, I also have a gate valve on the return line for additional control if needed. A mag drive type pump can work with restricted flow with no problems.

The ref uses a submersable pump in section one of the sump to feed it and gravity returns into the display tank, low flow only needed for this.

Remember to use lots of unions in your design and add extra tee's and things in case you need to add new items. I also ended up adding a chiller as my Metal halide lighting, 750 W plus the 4 - 96W duals added a lot of heat. I can now hold temp at 78 within 1 degree plus or minus. My return uses a center tank closed loop solution and I have added a seperate pump and loops on each end to get total tank turn over of near 22 times per hour.

There are many ways to design your system, this is a good place to ask questions, get ideas, and bounce your plans off of people. I like to keep it simple for operations, which means I have my RO/DI system plumbed into a holding tank with auto shut off. I use work pumps in my three holding tanks, 1 - RO/DI water, 2 - New Mix Water, and 3 - Aged Water. It is all controled from a central switch bank so I can move water any where I need. Twice weekly water changes are a snap, shut of main pumps, empty sump via pump into drain, top off from aged barrel and restart main pump. It takes all of 5 minutes to do a 40 gal change so it easily becomes routine.

Drop me a PM if you have more questions I can help you with if you want. Hope this helps.

Ron

Ratto · 11/07/2006, 10:26 AM

I'm sorry by what sump I ment...the salesman told me there were two types of sumps now. One the you need to put media into and one that doesn't need it. That's all I know???

michaeldaly · 11/07/2006, 11:14 AM

Medal Halydes for lights?????

I think you meant Metal Halides

Shagsbeard · 11/07/2006, 11:47 AM

There are lots of sump designs. You don't need one of the commercial ones, a dyi sump is pretty easy. For "media" I have rocks and sand and a clump of Cheato that I harvest regularly. Works great. Your live rock will be your filtering system, your sump primarily is a place for extra volume and equipment. Having a refugium set aside for algea and pods to grow is a plus too.

11/06/2006, 08:38 PM	#1
Ratto Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: SJ, California Posts: 7	Staring a new Reef Tank info needed I am planning on starting a new reef tank. The trouble is my brain is about 7 years outdated along with my current 65 gallon reef tank. I know I want a glass tank (either standard or bow front) between 125-150 gallon. I will be getting Medal Halydes for lights. I would like some sort of variable flow control. I plan on using submersible pumps to run the whole thing. And that's about it folks for my knowledge. What kind of sump, UV filter, Skimmer, ....ect because I have know idea. Thanks for any input. __________________ JR Current Tank Info: 65 gallon reef tank

11/06/2006, 09:07 PM	#2
smcdonn Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Fayetteville, AR Posts: 925	Well UV filters are a hot debate, I don't run one but some do. I have a Euro Reef Skimmer and love it. Of course some people swear by ASM, Deltec, etc... I am not really sure what you mean by "what kind of sump". Maybe some other people will chime in. __________________ 180g IN WALL, REEF Current Tank Info: 180 gallon

11/06/2006, 09:28 PM	#3
cilyjr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 1,683	if you want to know about sumps look here http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html i use the coralife super skimmer i think it does a good job! as far as variable flow control from sump to tank a t joint with a ball valve will give you all the control you need (look on melev's page for a pic) also you will want more flow than just the sump return. maybe a closed loop would be the way to go. __________________ Cls Current Tank Info: 180 inwall, 75 sump, 20lfrag, 3x lumen max elite w/250w radium 20k, recirc modded asm g-3, aqua controller apex,2x rw-20, 350lbs LR

11/07/2006, 10:26 AM	#5
Ratto Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: SJ, California Posts: 7	Addition I'm sorry by what sump I ment...the salesman told me there were two types of sumps now. One the you need to put media into and one that doesn't need it. That's all I know??? __________________ JR Current Tank Info: 65 gallon reef tank

11/06/2006, 09:51 PM	#4
rreddick Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brewster, MA Posts: 224	JR, So I will add my 2 cents to the thread. I am running a 180 with a 50 G sump and a 10 G ref. The sump is designed in 3 sections, section 1 for tank overflow pickup (note - with the size tank you are looking at get at least 2 - 1" overflows, 2 - 1 1/2 would be ideal) This section is also th eplace in the sump for the bulkhead to feed the Skimmer pump. Other option is a in sump skimmer. I use a Percision Marine Bullet 2 and love it but there are many other good skimmers. The second section is divided by baffles which hold a vdery coarse sponge for micro bubble control. In the second section area I have two heaters and 30# of live rock, The third section is for the return pump pickup through another bulkhead again divided by baffles for bubble control and to maintain the water level in the LR section two. I use a control valve on the drain from the main tank to control flow and overflow water level. I use a second pair of 1" overflows at a higher level as a backup into the sump. I use a Iwaki mag drive return pump, I also have a gate valve on the return line for additional control if needed. A mag drive type pump can work with restricted flow with no problems. The ref uses a submersable pump in section one of the sump to feed it and gravity returns into the display tank, low flow only needed for this. Remember to use lots of unions in your design and add extra tee's and things in case you need to add new items. I also ended up adding a chiller as my Metal halide lighting, 750 W plus the 4 - 96W duals added a lot of heat. I can now hold temp at 78 within 1 degree plus or minus. My return uses a center tank closed loop solution and I have added a seperate pump and loops on each end to get total tank turn over of near 22 times per hour. There are many ways to design your system, this is a good place to ask questions, get ideas, and bounce your plans off of people. I like to keep it simple for operations, which means I have my RO/DI system plumbed into a holding tank with auto shut off. I use work pumps in my three holding tanks, 1 - RO/DI water, 2 - New Mix Water, and 3 - Aged Water. It is all controled from a central switch bank so I can move water any where I need. Twice weekly water changes are a snap, shut of main pumps, empty sump via pump into drain, top off from aged barrel and restart main pump. It takes all of 5 minutes to do a 40 gal change so it easily becomes routine. Drop me a PM if you have more questions I can help you with if you want. Hope this helps. Ron

11/07/2006, 11:14 AM	#6
michaeldaly Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Earth Posts: 2,009	Medal Halydes for lights????? I think you meant Metal Halides

11/07/2006, 11:47 AM	#7
Shagsbeard Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Morro Bay, CA Posts: 2,143	There are lots of sump designs. You don't need one of the commercial ones, a dyi sump is pretty easy. For "media" I have rocks and sand and a clump of Cheato that I harvest regularly. Works great. Your live rock will be your filtering system, your sump primarily is a place for extra volume and equipment. Having a refugium set aside for algea and pods to grow is a plus too.