Light- Way Too Much

T000349 · 11/14/2006, 06:01 AM

I recently updated my Reef Lighting. I currently have a standard 55 gallon tank.

I use to have a power compact lighting system that contained 4 65 w lights, two of the 4 were white lights and 2 of the 4 were actinics.

I upgraded to the 48" Aqualight Pro by Coralife. It has 2 250 Watt Metal Halide and 2 96 W Blue Actinics, and 4 1 Watt Lunar lights, ever since I put this light on, most of my corals have receeded back into their bodies

I wanted the most intense light that I can afford so I bought this one. Do I need to move the corals that are receding back to another tank, and try a different species of coral or can I keep these soft corals that I currently have under this light with this tank>?

Chrisrush · 11/14/2006, 07:32 AM

How did you acclimate the corals to the new lights?

ken6217 · 11/14/2006, 08:49 AM

I don't know but that is a heck of a lot of light. I have a 90 gallon which is 4" deeper than a 55g. I was on the border line of 150 HQI and 250 HQI. I went with the 250. What types of coals do you keep? Also I think you really need to start with a short photoperiod and then work your way up.
Ken

EnFuego · 11/14/2006, 09:29 AM

You need to acclimate your corals to the new light. Some people add a few layers of screen and over the course of a few weeks take the layers off.

Steven Pro · 11/14/2006, 10:00 AM

Why do people think more is always better?

DrHank · 11/14/2006, 10:56 AM

I know that you probably don't want to hear it, and I am sorry to have to say but that is way too much light even for SPS corals. Aclimation is critical or you will bleach out your corals and possibly loose them. Check the lighting threads or post a question on the best way to acclimate corals to increased lighting. I did hear about starting with 3 hours on time and increasing duration. I honestly don't know the best way but feel that you really need to find out soon. Good Luck!

DrHank · 11/14/2006, 11:00 AM

I just re-read your original post. Softies almost always require the least amount of light, then LPS, and SPS the most. I'd move the soft corals out or revert back to your original lighting (which should have been fine for most soft corals).

prance1520 · 11/14/2006, 11:24 AM

Your light will be fine for softies, but you have to acclimate them REALLY well. Lots of people keep softies under halides. I kept them in a 75 (same hight as a 55?) under 2x250MH and 4x39w T5. Just make sure they are low in the tank, and you use the screen/reduced photoperiod method of light acclimation. Make sure to take it SLOW.

Quote:

Why do people think more is always better?

There has always been, and continues to be, contradicting information on whether artificial light is more or less bright than natural sunlight. Can you point us in the right direction on this Steven?

geckofrog · 11/14/2006, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Steven Pro
Why do people think more is always better?

It's the american "way" (biggie size, value size, etc.)

Steven Pro · 11/14/2006, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by prance1520
There has always been, and continues to be, contradicting information on whether artificial light is more or less bright than natural sunlight. Can you point us in the right direction on this Steven?

Sanjay has done extensive testing on aquarium lighting, both spectrum and intensity. And, I do recall seeing a paper on light levels in Tonga at various depths, but can't find it right now.

geckofrog · 11/14/2006, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Steven Pro
Sanjay has done extensive testing on aquarium lighting, both spectrum and intensity. And, I do recall seeing a paper on light levels in Tonga at various depths, but can't find it right now.

it has been stated that the quality of sunlight is far superior in the spectrum and artificial light fails in comparison to it. In other words "nature" has it down pat.

RichConley · 11/14/2006, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by geckofrog
Basically it stated that the quality of sunlight is far superior in the spectrum and artificial light fails in comparison to it. In other words "nature" has it down pat.

Thats not how I remember it.

I remember it being somewhere along the lines that Peak Noon sun is slightly higher than our tanks, but corals only get an hour or so of that, and in general, over the course of the day, get exposed to way more photons in a tank than they do in the wild.

Not that it really matters either way, FWIR, most corals are photosaturated by about 10 am, and dont start photosynthesizing again till about 4 or 5 pm.

laurentb · 11/14/2006, 12:30 PM

Your light is fine. just put the softies on the bottom and sides. but you really have acclimate them for a good 2 months.

geckofrog · 11/14/2006, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RichConley
Thats not how I remember it.

I remember it being somewhere along the lines that Peak Noon sun is slightly higher than our tanks, but corals only get an hour or so of that, and in general, over the course of the day, get exposed to way more photons in a tank than they do in the wild.

Not that it really matters either way, FWIR, most corals are photosaturated by about 10 am, and dont start photosynthesizing again till about 4 or 5 pm.

Sorry, I edited my comment.

Rich you are correct about that article.

Steven Pro · 11/14/2006, 01:12 PM

MH's (other than the 6,500 K Iwasaki) don't come close to the spectral distribution of natural sunlight. But, in terms of total PAR, it is possible to provide more light to our corals in relatively shallow aquaria versus the depths most corals grow for the trade.

Steven Pro · 11/14/2006, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RichConley
Not that it really matters either way, FWIR, most corals are photosaturated by about 10 am, and dont start photosynthesizing again till about 4 or 5 pm.

I believe this is from one of Dana Riddle's articles, another well respected lighting guru.

pjf · 11/26/2006, 08:11 PM

Suppose I have a standard depth reef tank with an SPS coral sitting on live rock and reaching within 6â€ of the surface. Directly above the SPS is a hood-mounted DE HQI lamp. Suppose my DE HQI lamp was my only light and I want to acclimate the SPS to a 10-12 hour photoperiod for viewing.

1. Will a 150-watt HQI fixture be enough for the SPS to exceed its compensation point?
2. Will a 150-watt HQI fixture be enough for photo saturation of the SPS?
3. Will a 250-watt HQI fixture cause photo inhibition of the SPS?

Assume that my chiller and water flow will keep the SFS within the desired temperature range. Assume that my lamp is in a fixture with a decent reflector and shield.

tkeracer619 · 11/26/2006, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pjf
Suppose I have a standard depth reef tank with an SPS coral sitting on live rock and reaching within 6â€ of the surface. Directly above the SPS is a hood-mounted DE HQI lamp. Suppose my DE HQI lamp was my only light and I want to acclimate the SPS to a 10-12 hour photoperiod for viewing.

1. Will a 150-watt HQI fixture be enough for the SPS to exceed its compensation point?
2. Will a 150-watt HQI fixture be enough for photo saturation of the SPS?
3. Will a 250-watt HQI fixture cause photo inhibition of the SPS?

Assume that my chiller and water flow will keep the SFS within the desired temperature range. Assume that my lamp is in a fixture with a decent reflector and shield.

I have a few sps, the ones that are right by the water surface show faster growth rates and thicker structure. I use 250w SE bulbs on an e ballest.

I have a 12 hour photo period, 3 hours of that is vho actinic only, full lighting is only in use 6 hours a day.

11/14/2006, 06:01 AM	#1
T000349 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 9	Light- Way Too Much I recently updated my Reef Lighting. I currently have a standard 55 gallon tank. I use to have a power compact lighting system that contained 4 65 w lights, two of the 4 were white lights and 2 of the 4 were actinics. I upgraded to the 48" Aqualight Pro by Coralife. It has 2 250 Watt Metal Halide and 2 96 W Blue Actinics, and 4 1 Watt Lunar lights, ever since I put this light on, most of my corals have receeded back into their bodies I wanted the most intense light that I can afford so I bought this one. Do I need to move the corals that are receding back to another tank, and try a different species of coral or can I keep these soft corals that I currently have under this light with this tank>?

11/14/2006, 07:32 AM	#2
Chrisrush Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 2,754	How did you acclimate the corals to the new lights? __________________ Thanks, Chris Current Tank Info: 2015 Reef Savvy Dream Tank Winner

11/14/2006, 10:00 AM	#5
Steven Pro Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 9,376	Why do people think more is always better? __________________ Steven Pro, yep that is my real name. Current Tank Info: Twelve 600 gallon tubs located in a greenhouse

11/14/2006, 10:56 AM	#6
DrHank Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Crestview, FL Posts: 2,138	I know that you probably don't want to hear it, and I am sorry to have to say but that is way too much light even for SPS corals. Aclimation is critical or you will bleach out your corals and possibly loose them. Check the lighting threads or post a question on the best way to acclimate corals to increased lighting. I did hear about starting with 3 hours on time and increasing duration. I honestly don't know the best way but feel that you really need to find out soon. Good Luck! __________________ Doc (Click the red house for the FPRS site) Current Tank Info: 210 gallon Mixed reef, 65 reef

11/14/2006, 11:00 AM	#7
DrHank Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Crestview, FL Posts: 2,138	I just re-read your original post. Softies almost always require the least amount of light, then LPS, and SPS the most. I'd move the soft corals out or revert back to your original lighting (which should have been fine for most soft corals). __________________ Doc (Click the red house for the FPRS site) Current Tank Info: 210 gallon Mixed reef, 65 reef

11/14/2006, 08:49 AM	#3
ken6217 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ Posts: 2,179	I don't know but that is a heck of a lot of light. I have a 90 gallon which is 4" deeper than a 55g. I was on the border line of 150 HQI and 250 HQI. I went with the 250. What types of coals do you keep? Also I think you really need to start with a short photoperiod and then work your way up. Ken

11/14/2006, 09:29 AM	#4
EnFuego Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco Posts: 453	You need to acclimate your corals to the new light. Some people add a few layers of screen and over the course of a few weeks take the layers off.

11/14/2006, 12:30 PM	#13
laurentb Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort Worth TEXAS Posts: 127	Your light is fine. just put the softies on the bottom and sides. but you really have acclimate them for a good 2 months.

11/14/2006, 01:12 PM	#15
Steven Pro Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 9,376	MH's (other than the 6,500 K Iwasaki) don't come close to the spectral distribution of natural sunlight. But, in terms of total PAR, it is possible to provide more light to our corals in relatively shallow aquaria versus the depths most corals grow for the trade. __________________ Steven Pro, yep that is my real name. Current Tank Info: Twelve 600 gallon tubs located in a greenhouse

11/26/2006, 08:11 PM	#17
pjf Premium Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,954	How Much is Enough for Long Photoperiod? Suppose I have a standard depth reef tank with an SPS coral sitting on live rock and reaching within 6â€ of the surface. Directly above the SPS is a hood-mounted DE HQI lamp. Suppose my DE HQI lamp was my only light and I want to acclimate the SPS to a 10-12 hour photoperiod for viewing. 1. Will a 150-watt HQI fixture be enough for the SPS to exceed its compensation point? 2. Will a 150-watt HQI fixture be enough for photo saturation of the SPS? 3. Will a 250-watt HQI fixture cause photo inhibition of the SPS? Assume that my chiller and water flow will keep the SFS within the desired temperature range. Assume that my lamp is in a fixture with a decent reflector and shield.