PhosBan 150 reactor vs. Kent Marine Phos Reactor

[The Saltwater Kid]

Ok, I'm thinking of getting one of these but I would like to find out a little more about them first. Number one, which is the better model? Number two, which media would you recommend using...PhosBan or Kent Marine PowerPhos? What size pump would you use (I believe these reactors say to use only 90 - 100gph flow)? The most important thing is I've heard of peoples corals bleaching when using these, some people say it's because the media drops the alkalinity...what would you use to keep the alkalinity where it should be (one suggested baking soda, that sounds too simple but if so how much)? The whole reason behind getting one of these is to help keep the pest algae at bay (especially Cyano) but I don't want to drop my alkalinity as that's what has been surmised to have happened to my tank when i used Chemi-Clean to get rid of the Cyano...it nuked my tank killing all but a few of my corals, fish and inverts but thats another story that I posted earlier and is too painful to revisit. Any help here as always would be greatly appreciated!!!

[The Saltwater Kid]

bump

[The Saltwater Kid]

come on people...SOMEBODY must have some info/opinions on this...please!!! bump

[cayars]

Either is a good choice. I have both but prefer the 150 since it's easier to change the media in it. Other then that they work the same.

[Ah64av8tor]

I have the 150 and feel they are both the same quality, and over priced for what they are ( nothing but a fluidized bed filter ) you could DIY a better reactor for about the same money.

As for media I don't think any one really knows which is best, because of the limitations of the phosphate test kits (Just because it does not register does not mean there is not any Phosphate) you don't even really know when to change the media(change the media when you get a rise in detectable levels). What does all that mean? I don't know.

Like I said I have the 150 and run twice the amount of media as recommended mixed with carbon and change it every month

I have never had detectable levels of Phosphate.

I have had had a noticeable reduction in nuisance algae and I do belive it to be due to the Phosban reactor/media.

Do I have any proof that I haven't waisted $100 over the last 3 months NO.

I used a MJ 400(the smallest pump I have) and it has to be throttled back at least 50%.

I use a home made buffer (baking soda to washing soda 6:1) and havent noticed a drop in alkalinity.

Just go for it like I did.

[vessxpress1]

Deltec sells a 90.00, refillable, phosphate test kit that's supposed to be the best and reads anything. I plan on getting one so I don't waste media if I don't have to.

Set up a kalk drip to keep your alk up.

[The Saltwater Kid]

I don't know about a kalk drip, i have limited space and would like to keep things as simple as I can. I'm just very scared to mess with anything that drops my alkalinity now since ground zero happened to my tank but on the other hand i DO want to do everything possible to make sure the cyano has an extremely tough time ever coming back! Any recommendations?

[Ah64av8tor]

YES, drip Kalk and use Rangys 2 part!!!!!!!!!!!Or you can do 20% weekly water changes.

It's that simple.

[The Saltwater Kid]

okay, how do I drip kalk and what is Rangys 2 part? Do I still need a Phos Reactor?

[Ah64av8tor]

Read The chem forum and if you think you have accumulated phosphates run a reactor.
2 leter pop bottle airline tube, RODI and Kalk (use Mrs Waggs or Ball pickling lime).....drip at night.

[The Saltwater Kid]

Sorry v8tor but what exactly will this kalk drip do for me? I must sound like a moron but can you explain step-by-step setup using the above mention soda bottle and correct mixture of all ingredients or possibly provide a link to it if there is one here on RC? Thanks!!!

[The Saltwater Kid]

bump

[raddogz]

First thing first is why do you think you need a phosphate reactor to begin with.

If you have excess nutrients then perhaps a phosphate reactor might help, but only if you understand what is causing the algae outbreaks to occur.

Chemi-clean is an antibiotic and will starve out the cyano bacteriaand as a side effect it will lower the available oxygen in the tank which in effect will also lower the alkalinity.

Read the below listed link for more information on Randy's 2-Part formula
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...l2004/chem.htm

The below is an article written by Randy on Calcium and Alkalinity.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php
If you don't understand the above first don't go around messing with the reef chemistry.

[Ah64av8tor]

Justin,

I realize now that you are new despite you high post count. I am sorry for the trouble and losses you have had in the past. This is an opportunity for you to slow down and learn form the past events. Strive to learn as much as you can and maintain your tank in pristine conditions with lush growths of coralline and pods for 6 months before you add any more corals or fish to it. You need to take a step back and do some reading about the basics a not look for a magic piece of equipment.

Understanding what and why things are or are not right in your tank will do more for you in the way of correcting the problems than any advice I can give or piece of equipment I could tell you to buy.

Knowing what requirements a coral or any other animal in your care has would be important to know so you can provide them if you plan on keeping it in a tank.

Understanding what alkalinity, calcium and Ph are and how they affect each other and how you can affect them would be a good place to start before you worry about what the next coral is going to be to replace the one that just died.

I have been doing this for a long time and I too recently have had trouble with a new tank and nuisance algae. It is a part of keeping a reef that will run its course. Patience is some thing you can not buy; you need to wait things out before you load the tank up again.

Here are a few tips I have learned over the years.

Nothing good happens FAST.

There is nothing in that glass box that you didn’t put in there.

You can not read enough.

[The Saltwater Kid]

The thing is my corals were all doing fine...good as a matter of fact and then the cyano came. I tried everything from adjusting powerhead flow, cut down feedings, syphon out the cyano...i even did a mod to my AC70 into a minifuge with some chaeto and live rock but to no avail as it just kept coming and was starting to cover my corals and irritate them. That's when i tried the chemi-clean which i followed the directions to the letter including adding an airstone in the tank for extra aireation and it still went horribly wrong. I'm not a person who adds a new coral every couple of days, I hadn't added a new coral for a couple of months when the cyano infestation began so i don't think it has anything to do with adding corals too fast as i said above the corals, fish and inverts were doing good. The reason I was looking into a phos reactor was preventative maintenance in hopes of heading another infestation off at the pass so to speak. I have never had a good skimmer and maybe that had something to do with the algae/cyano getting a foothold to begin with. Hopefully I will be getting a new skimmer for Christmas (an Aqua C Remora I believe) and that will make a big difference. My tank has since stabilized and my water params are once again where they should be so i do plan to start adding corals again as my tank looks pretty bare. Maybe I should just hold off on the phos reactor until i see how my tank does with a new, better skimmer?

[raddogz]

A better skimmer will help.

What I have noticed that even with a good skimmer but not enough flow in the tank and or clean up crew to take care of the detritus you will get cyano issues that will go away and come back.

Are you using tap water or ro/di and what kind of salt are you using?

Preventative measure can be as much as doing more water changes and siphoning visible detritus.

[Ah64av8tor]

I have read most of your 700 posts and see the standard new tank problems.

A ph of 7.6 is not good you should try to understand that with proper water chemistry the cyano growth is inhibited and coraline growth is encouraged. Nitrate and phosphate are the basic building blocks of cell tissue whether it is bacteria or coral, we have to provide the right conditions to encourage the growth we want.

Raise the Ph Alk and Ca maintain proper levels and grow coraline not cyano.

Oh Yea, I have run SeaClones for almost 10 years and they work as good as any other in their class......you have to understand skimmers, keep them clean and adjusted and they will produce a cup full every day.

[The Saltwater Kid]

I am now (since about 2 months ago) been using R/O water for topoffs as well as water changes. My pH is at 8.0. I will look into methods of maintaining my Alk at a proper level. I do have lot's of coraline growth all over (practically the whole back of my tank is covered in coraline) and am keeping my calcium levels up with a weekly dose of Kent Marine Liquid Calcium. I plan on doing water changes more frequently now that I have a source of R/O water handy as I had been doing them only once per month (20%). As for the Seaclone v8tor I have to disagree with you, mine never produced a full cup per day...more like 3/4 of a cup per week and I adjusted it just about every way you could. The fact is it just isn't a quality skimmer...merely better than nothing. Some (like you evidently) have had luck with them but by far a majority have not. So in conclusion I believe that with weekly water changes (using R/O water), weekly calcium additive and I'll find some way to keep the alkalinity at proper levels this will help prevent serious cyano outbreaks in the fututre.

[Ah64av8tor]

sounds like a great start.... read the article written by Randy Holms Farley on Calcium and Alkalinity.

[raddogz]

Sounds like a plan.

What kind of fish and corals did you or do you have?

[The Saltwater Kid]

I HAVE 1 False Percula Clown, 1 Blue/Green Chromis and 4 or 5 assorted zoo frags. I HAD: Sun Polyps, Deresa Clam, Some type of Montipora, Green Bubble Coral, Candy Cane Coral and some Pulsing Xenia, 1 Sixline Wrasse and another Blue/Green Chromis.

[The Saltwater Kid]

Oh yeah, HAD a couple of Flame Scallops too.

[vessxpress1]

Like av8tor said, check out the Reef Chemistry Forum. I always direct people there because I learned A LOT there myself over the past few months. Keep in mind Randy-Holmes Farley (the moderator of the forum and professional chemist) has seen all the basic questions a thousand times because people won't look around. There's a sticky at the top called Reef Chemistry articles. There's probably about 50. Go down the list for all of your problems and if you can't find an article on your problem or have a more detailed question, ask Randy. There are a few different articles on kalk that I just read myself to get a better understanding of it. A kalk drip can maintain your Ca, Mg, Alk, and pH where you want it.

[The Saltwater Kid]

I did go to the reef chemistry forum and read one of Randy's articles on Calcium and Alkalinity. I must admit most of it went way over my head but what I did gather from it is there are basically two ways that would work best for me. The kalk drip method (and I have put on my Christmas list one of those Kent Marine aquadose systems that Randy's article links to...for $20 you can't beat it and you can adjust the drip rate easily) and the 2 part additive method (I believe I would use the Biocarbonate B-Ionic 2 part). These seem to be very effective and inexpensive which is good news to my wallet. Thanks for pointing me in this direction. I think once I get a proper dosage down of whichever method I use it will keep my Alk, Cal and pH at the proper levels to discourage the nuisance alage/cyano from taking over which is what I want.

[raddogz]

Bear in mind none of methods you have stated are magical overnight cures. In many cases it still may take a few months or longer to bring the nutrient issue under control.

This is not one of those hobbies where there is a magical band-aid no matter how much money you spend. Basic husbandry skills and gaining knowledge from the articles provided will help you in the long run.