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12/17/2006, 09:10 PM
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#1 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 752
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Recommend good top-off system
i need to ditch my home-made one, please recommend some good and not too pricy top-off system.
thanks a bunch! |
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12/17/2006, 09:22 PM
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#2 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 752
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i just found this, its on sale now. is it any good?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...&N=2004+113592
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"you work to live, you don't live to work" Current Tank Info: 75g Reef, 100lbs LR, 20g Sump/Fuge, (2)250W 12k Reeflux MHs, (2)110W Actinic VHOs, Dosing DIY 2-part w/ Aquamedic Twin Doser, all controlled by ReefKeeper2 |
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12/17/2006, 09:25 PM
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#3 |
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Team RC Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: STL
Posts: 14,754
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__________________
-Brett 180g Marineland Starfire In-Wall 278 gallon system |
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12/17/2006, 09:44 PM
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#4 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 266
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tunze is very good but more expensive than autotopoff.com
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12/17/2006, 10:26 PM
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#5 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Valencia (So Cal)
Posts: 757
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autotopoff.com for me and workin great
__________________
-rich Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon Mixed Reef |
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12/17/2006, 10:36 PM
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#6 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 46
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how exactly do they function? How accurate are they to changes? How much space do you need? Where does it go? What problems may occur?
Thanks |
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12/17/2006, 10:56 PM
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#7 |
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Premium Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Santa Maria,CA
Posts: 1,618
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liter meter III cost a bit but worth every penny set it forget it. My has been working without flaw over year n half. JMO
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12/17/2006, 11:38 PM
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#8 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Maumee, OH
Posts: 15,673
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Whatever you buy I would recommend a system that uses low voltage at the floats. Many cheap units without low voltage adapters use 110V at the float switch and that may become dangerous as the seals of the wire to the float are not very reliable and 110V could short into the salt water.
Also I would recommend dual floats (Pump starts when the water reaches the lower float and stops when the high one is reached). Systems with a single float subject the supply pump to too frequent turn ons and offs as only a little level change or even little waves can trigger the single float. Also the floats have to be protected inside a tube or box so splashing, waves or snails do not interfere with their operation. For supply you can use a small powerhead from a reservoir but a doser pump is always preferred for safety. If it can be adjusted to supply at a rate just slightly higher than the evaporation, if the float switch fails you will not overflow the sump or tank, besides changes in salitnity will be slower.
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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind. Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium |
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